The Sun and the Moon and the Stars

Farmata Dia, raised by Senegalese immigrant parents in Far Rockaway, New York, discovered her passion for surfing and mentoring through The Laru Beya Collective in 2016. Committed to empowering young women of color, she advocates for women’s rights, environmental justice, and community upliftment. As a mentor and model, she is breaking barriers and redefining representation in surfing, modeling, and skating.

“Really immerse yourself in the community. These days, it’s all about who you know more than what you know. It only takes one person to change your life or jump-start your career.”

— Farmata

Farmy and Rockaway are synonymous. She is as much a fixture in this intimate hamlet by the sea as dolphins, jetties, and surfboards. I’ve known her almost as long as I’ve been in Rockaway but honestly can’t remember what it was like not to know her. And as cliché as it is, to know Farmy is to love her. She’s fun, fearless, honest, quirky, and cool. Our friendship blooms in a constant drift of creative and personal growth. Farmy and I work together often, shooting surf, a film (still in the works), and numerous Laru Beya events. Always up for anything, she excitedly agreed to model for this surf culture meets fashion photo shoot in a unique to us beach location. We used my beloved Dry Robe changing robe as a dressing room and shot three different looks thrifted and styled by me. We started our shoot with a blood red Xscape cocktail dress, next a Shein satin baby blue cocktail dress, and wrapped up the late afternoon with a black Bebe blazer, Uniqlo dress pants, a black tie borrowed from my husband’s wardrobe, and a Fahizo silk bow tie. The last part of the shoot I added a little body glitter to play off the light from the sun and the moon, both competing as our backdrop, while Farmy stood tall among the dunes and butterflies danced around us.

*No dunes were touched as we only used established beach paths for our entire shoot.

You’ve been enjoying great success with your modeling career, shooting with cool brands and publications like Teva, Finisterre, Heroine Mag, and Teen Vogue. I’m always hyped when I see your photo pop up on brand pages. I’m wondering if you have a shoot that really stands out in your mind as momentous?  

“ To be wild is to be yourself. ”

— Farmata

FD: My favorite shoot to date would probably be the campaign trip with Seea. We traveled to what felt like paradise and surfed some of the longest waves I’ve ever experienced—waves that made my legs burn, gave me time to think, and let me create incredible memories with beautiful people. While the surfing was incredible, it was the group I traveled with that made the trip so special.  

My dream of surfing with one of my idols, Leah Dawson, came true. Leah truly embodies the art of surfing. The media crew was full of talented creatives who made shooting effortless, and the Seea team was inspirational with their hard work and dedication. Jo and Annabelle, the other winners, were so cool. Hearing their stories and realizing how we all ended up in the same place was such a unique experience.  

Any advice for someone interested in modeling?  

FD: My advice would be to start by building a portfolio. The first step is getting your digitals done. From there, connect with small photographers, stylists, and other models—really immerse yourself in the community. These days, it’s all about who you know more than what you know. It only takes one person to change your life or jump-start your career. Attend events, make sure people see your face, and post often on social media. Share fun things about yourself—it doesn’t have to be just photos. Videos showcasing your personality, adventures, or interests can go a long way.  

Farmy models a Doyle Surfboard

What are some of your favorite brands you’ve worked with?  

FD: Some of my favorite brands are Finisterre, Seea, Ricki Beach Club, Vans, Fat Tire, and Kings Glassing. I’ve been so fortunate to travel the world with them—it’s honestly hard to keep up sometimes! Going to Europe for the first time with Finisterre is one of my top three trips. Their focus on sustainability and ethical practices resonates deeply with me. I like to joke that they’re what Patagonia wishes it could be! Creating my own sustainable swimwear collection with Ricki Beach Club was another highlight. The process was so smooth, and using my community and personal experiences as inspiration for the designs felt like a dream come true. Fat Tire is such a fun brand! Every adventure I’ve shared with them has been a delight. I even got to shape my first surfboard with Kings Glassing, which was a surreal moment. That experience was especially meaningful because we raffled off some boards to support a Laru Beya fundraiser.  

“The more we invest in our community, the better our quality of life. ”

— Farmata

What’s a brand you’d like to work with but haven’t yet?  

FD: I’d love to branch out and collaborate with brands beyond the surf world. Red Bull or Monster, for example, do such cool things with their crews and events. Also, I’ve been fascinated by wave pools lately! I’d love to work with a wave pool brand or become an ambassador for one—it’s such a unique and fun experience that not many people get to have. Another dream is to find the intersection between high fashion and surf culture. I’d love to explore collaborations involving clothing, accessories, and shoes that merge those two worlds.  

We’ve talked many times about your complicated relationship with Rockaway. I think everyone has some sort of challenge with home. Growing up, you hated it and felt like there was nothing to do. The ocean and surfing changed all that. Where are you now in your ever-evolving relationship with this place?  

FD: Right now, I feel at peace with Rockaway. This community has done so much to shape who I am today. I’ve created so many beautiful memories here that I’ll cherish forever. That said, growing up here my entire life, I’m starting to feel the routine of it—the same faces, the same surf breaks, the same travel patterns. It’s starting to feel stagnant. I’ve been saying this for years, but I really want to move to California. That’s my goal after I finish school. I feel like once I’ve wrapped up what I need to do here, I’ll be ready for new waves, new faces, and a different flow of life.  

“No matter how hard life feels, everything will be okay. The highs and lows allow us to appreciate both sides of life.  ”

— Farmata

Congratulations on going back to school! Where and what are you studying? And what made you decide to take that huge leap and return?  

FD: I’m studying Professional Communication at Brooklyn College. The past few years have given me so much clarity about my purpose in life and how I want to impact the world. Speaking on panels and becoming a voice in my community inspired me to go back to school. Being surrounded by so many intelligent people can sometimes feel overwhelming—I often feel like I don’t know enough. Going back to school is partly for me, to prove that I can do it. It’s a personal challenge that will also help me grow and add value to my work.  

What’s your plan for after graduation?  

FD: While I’m in school, my plan is to save as much money as I can and prepare to move to California. Once I graduate, I’m hoping to make the move within a few months. I recently started a new job with the Justice Center, and I was excited to learn that they have locations in California where I could potentially transfer. Surfing brings me joy, but building community and making a direct impact is what keeps me going. My long-term goal is to open my own nonprofit. I’ll continue working toward that dream while growing my community and honing my surfing skills in California.  

What are you reading right now?  

FD: I just finished Where the Crawdads Sing, The Love Hypothesis, and If Beale Street Could Talk. Each of these books resonated with me in different ways. Crawdads reminded me of my upbringing and childhood mentality. The Love Hypothesis was a light, fun read that took me back to my Wattpad days, staying up until 1 a.m. crying over fanfiction. I’ve been intentional about finding books that help me learn about myself and explore the world through different perspectives.  

Farmata models an Almond Surfboard

What is one thing people would be surprised to know about you?  

FD: I’m a total weirdo, haha. I’m much more awkward than people expect when I meet them—I tend to overthink everything. I also love anime! I grew up watching it and still do. Oh, and I’m a Leo. One of my favorite animals? A worm.  

Over a great conversation about a recent trip to Idaho, we shared laughs about stretching creative and personal boundaries. Can you tell us about that trip?  

FD: My trip to Idaho felt like a dream. The warm sun on my face while looking at snow-covered mountaintops—it was surreal. Hanging with Terumi and Autumn in the middle of nowhere felt magical. We recreated beautiful photos of past Olympians but with a cultural twist. The outfits, makeup, and storyline were all out of this world.  

What does *Wild* mean to you?  

FD: To be wild is to be yourself. For me, the hardest part of my journey has been loving every part of who I am—the good, the bad, and the messy. I think once you reach that point of self-acceptance, you can truly live life to the fullest. I feel my most wild when I’m with my friends, doing crazy dances and making random noises.  

What are two or three things you know for sure?  

FD:  

1. One thing I know for sure is that I don’t know anything! There’s always something new to learn and a fresh perspective to consider.  

2. No matter how hard life feels, everything will be okay. The highs and lows allow us to appreciate both sides of life.  

3. The more we invest in our community, the better our quality of life. Being with Laru Beya for the past seven years has taught me that the grass really is greener where you water it. Share resources, show up for one another, and create spaces that uplift everyone. 

Five Toe Joe

Joseph “fivetoejoe” Glascott surfing in July at the AmpSurf event in Rockaway Beach, New York City

It’s a sunny Saturday morning in July. The water is warm, right around 70 degrees, and the sweet sound of yews echo up and down the beach. I’m swimming around surfers and AmpSurf volunteers, working hard to capture the pure joy of the moment. Bill’s out in the water too, shooting video. I turn my camera towards the jetty, playing with the uptown light, and at once I notice a surfer sitting in the lineup. We quickly start this dance: he gets in position, I get into position. It feels really familiar, and I wonder who he is. I’m guessing maybe he’s a volunteer who decided to catch a quick wave or two before things really got going. I shoot him turning the board around and then his arms paddling as drops of the ocean fall from his fingertips. His face is serious and focused. He spots his wave, paddling into it as the volunteers nearby make room, and we all watch and yell in unison. As I photograph him pop up close to shore, I realize at once he’s not a volunteer; he’s one of the participants. Like all the surfers I know and love, he gets right back on the board, and paddles back out. I shoot him as he glides through the water, the two of us making eye contact as we head farther out. Some of the volunteers circle around him, in awe of how well he surfs. I hear pieces of his story as he talks about his relationship with surfing—I’m certain I hear him say it’s been twenty years since he’s been back in the lineup.

A few weeks later, Joseph Glascott, driving his beloved Harley, meets up with Bill and me at Floyd Bennet Field. It’s surreal seeing the bike in person now that I know more of the story and how his motorcycle plays a key role. Joseph wears a white button down shirt and dark dress pants, a navy-blue patterned tie and pocket square tucked away in his backpack. It’s always weird to see a surfer in “street clothes.” I’ve photographed him before, and we’ve been talking often. It’s interesting doing photo shoots with friends, and he’s definitely my friend now. The three of us can’t stop laughing as we move around the location to unique spots I’ve scouted just for this day. At once, I see that this isn’t his first photoshoot. He’s mastered poses, knowing exactly how to position himself, just like in the water. I give little direction. He smiles and tells me he has a bit of experience with modeling/acting; he was in a Hot Wheels commercial back in the day. Bill is beyond excited! Later back home as we’re talking about what a unique shoot it was and how much fun we had, Joseph sends me a text. It’s the commercial. As we watch it several times with ear to ear grins, I think about him as a little kid, growing up, as he told me, surrounded by positivity, a lesson handed down from his Dad and a quality you notice the minute you talk to him. Like every great teacher, Joseph’s taken that inherited positivity, applied it to his own life, and freely paid it forward to the next generation and all of us lucky enough to call him friend.

When and where did you first start surfing?

JG: I started surfing, boogie boarding actually, when I was about 14/15 years old down at the West End 2 jetty. Started learning how to catch waves and the general rules of the line-up. Back then WE2 was pretty territorial so you had to learn fast. The next summer I borrowed my cousin's board, a 6’2 trifin thruster, that was hanging in my grandmother's garage, and paddled out for the first time. After that day I was hooked. It was tough learning at WE2 since I'm goofy foot and soon made Gilgo my home surf spot. Eventually, I moved up to an 8ft locally shaped board from a shop called Phoenix and often borrowed friends longboards down where we were at. 

Has water always been important in your life?

JG: The ocean became a shaping force in my young life. It provided me with many of the lessons young men need to learn at that age, like patience, humility, and the love of the natural world. It also taught me how to challenge myself, not allow fear to hold me back. The more time I spent in the water the more I wanted to learn about it and eventually got involved with ocean and environmental issues on Long Island.

Surfing again has reconnected me to a part of myself I thought was lost. - Joseph

When did you learn about Amp Surf? 

JG: I learned about AMPSURF from my girlfriend Kailey. She had listened to me talk about the good ol’ days of surfing back before I lost the leg and how much it meant to me and my life. She started asking why I didn’t surf anymore, and I listed all the reasons I gave away my board and why it was an impossibility in my current condition. This made her laugh because of the fact that riding motorcycles again was never in question, but for some reason surfing again seemed like an impossible task. So apparently there is this thing called Google, and she typed in amputee surfing, and Ampsurf was the first result to pop up. She wanted to surprise me by signing me up as a birthday gift but wasn’t sure if I would be into it. Needless to say, I was blown away by the thoughtfulness of the gift and that she believed I could do this even when I didn’t.

The loss of my leg and my new status as an Asymmetrical American™ 🤣 was brutal at first. - Joseph

Joseph, how did you lose your leg?

JG: I lost my leg in a hit-and-run motorcycle accident in Oct of 2008. While riding home from a friend's house, someone ran a stop sign, hit me off the bike and left me for dead in the street. They didn’t amputate the leg that night like they should have since my vascular sys in the leg was destroyed. I spent the next two months in the hospital. After eight or nine surgeries, the doctors said all they could do was keep cutting back the infected areas, and that's when they told me I had to make the decision to either keep going or to amputate the leg below the knee. It was the most difficult decision I had ever had to make, but understanding my situation could get worse if I didn’t, I made the choice to have them go ahead and remove the leg.

How has your life changed because of that loss?

JG: The loss of my leg and my new status as an Asymmetrical American™ 🤣 was brutal at first. The only thing that kept me going and in positive spirits was the love and support from my friends and family. That may seem cliche but it is the absolute truth. If it wasn’t for them, I wouldn't be here today. Recovery was steady but slow. I returned to work in January of 2009, even before I had my prosthetic. I am a school Librarian and missed my students. Getting back working with them helped a lot too. Once I healed up I started working with a great company called International Prosthetics and Orthotics. After a year or so with the help of a cane, an Irish Blackthorn to be specific, life started to get back to normal, or at least the new normal. I had to learn how to do many of the simple things of daily life all over again with consideration of the leg and balance and how to deal with the pain once I weaned myself off of the Dilaudid. One thing that didn't change was my love of motorcycles. I was up riding again in the fall of 2009. Yet, for some reason, the idea of surfing again seemed an impossibility until recently when someone I have come to care for very much signed me up for the AmpSurf event.

Wow, so you got right back on your motorcycle without hesitation?

JG: There was never a doubt in my mind that I was going to ride again. It took me about about a year or so to be healed up and strong enough to ride, but my good friend Irish Rob told me whenever I was ready I could take out one of his bikes. I spent a lot of time during my recovery at Rob’s house. So one day we were just hanging out, and the feeling, the need hit me. I asked Rob where the keys to Red were, red being his red ‘05 Sportser, and without hesitation he told me the keys were by the back door and that the garage was open. He didn’t make a big deal of it or even follow me out. He just let me have that moment to myself. I only rode up and down and around the block a few times that first time out, but in those few minutes I felt like I was whole again. 

What was that like going back to work? How did your students and coworkers react?

JG: Going back to work was challenging. I didn’t have my prosthetic yet and had to get around on my crutches and it was obvious that something was “missing.” At the time I was working at the Jr High School and the kids, like most kids, asked all the odd and awkward questions that only kids will ask and it was great. They were like, “sucks you lost your leg. Can I see it?” They had no pity, just empathy and curiosity. 

Tell me about the idea of using the nickname Five Toe Joe. 

JG: The nickname FiveToeJoe was given to me by my long-time friend and riding partner “Irish Rob.” Much of my recovery was spent at Rob's house in the garage working on motorcycles, drinking beer, and talking shit. Rob likes to break balls and bust chops and on one particular day we were carrying on about something ridiculous when he said “Hey five toe, let’s go.” Embracing the name helped turn something tragic into something of an identity to be proud of. Being disabled wasn’t something I was going to be ashamed of. So I embraced it head on, and FiveToeJoe was born.

Did you decide right away you were going to participate in the AmpSurf event?

JG: As soon as Kailey told me about it I was in. I did have some questions about whether or not someone with a below-the-knee prosthetic could participate. After a quick email to Dana, the founder of AmpSurf, I was assured that the coaches and volunteers would absolutely be able to accommodate my handicap and get me surfing again. 

I never thought I would be able to pop-up and surf again.

For the first time in twenty years, you were back in the line up. That was such a heavy statement to hear you say. Can you describe what that was like? Physically? Emotionally?

JG: Physically, it was a serious challenge, but the joy and adrenaline of being out there again kept me energized and paddling out for just one more wave every time I rode one in. I’ve found it difficult to work out over the years without getting hurt and wanted to get back into the water just for the workout. I never thought I would be able to pop-up and surf again. Emotionally, it is still tough to describe. I love being in the ocean. About a year ago I had my prosthetists at IPO make me a water leg so that I could walk into the ocean again. The idea of taking my leg off and floundering into the water was something I was embarrassed about. I had finally come to the point where I wanted to get more out of life and start getting back to doing things that brought joy to my life. On my 45th birthday, I was at my house in Maine and walked into the ocean for the first time since 2008. It was an emotionally overwhelming experience. Being in the ocean and connecting to something so much larger than oneself was a power I had not felt in a long time. Still, the idea of surfing was something I couldn't even imagine. It took the faith of someone I love to convince me I could do it. And because of that faith and belief in myself, I had one of the best days of my life with AMPSURF and plan to continue to keep getting out there.

How has surfing again affected you?

JG: Surfing again has reconnected me to a part of myself I thought was lost. Just sitting out there on the board, legs dangling, hand pushing through the surf, listening to the sounds of the ocean, I felt whole again. Also, rising to the challenge and accomplishing something I truly thought was impossible has motivated me to get out there more and challenge myself with other things I thought were out of reach.

Do you plan on surfing more?

JG: I absolutely plan on surfing more. I already started saving for a new board and hope to be back in the water next spring if not sooner.

If someone is considering participating in an event with an organization like Amp Surf, what kind of advice or words of encouragement would you share with them? What can they expect? And how do they push through the fear?

JG: AmpSurf is an incredible organization. From my early questions, to getting in the water, I felt supported the whole time. The event was well organized and every person involved was kind, friendly, and had so much genuine encouragement. I felt like there was no way I could fail. I would encourage anyone, regardless of their disability, to participate in an AmpSurf event. I felt safe and supported while on the beach receiving instructions to being in the water with the coaches and all of the amazing volunteers. So much so that I hope to be able to volunteer in any way I can at some of next year's events.

The idea behind The Wild Journal is living a life that’s connected to nature, the outdoors, and water, being totally aware of its importance. Wild means something different to everyone. What does wild mean to you?

JG: To me wild means freedom. Free to connect with who or whatever you love. Free to express yourself, and free to create the world around you. But something that is wild is also something to be respected, honored, and revered. The ocean and the world around us should be respected for its unique beauty and power. There is nothing so humbling as getting lost in the woods or being pounded by a wave to make you feel humble to the majesty that is Mother Nature.

You recently celebrated your birthday with a trip to Paris during the Olympics. You look happy and like you fit right in to the Parisian vibe. Is that a trip you’ve always thought about? 

JG: I’m my wildest imaginings I would never have believed that I would get to celebrate my birthday in Paris, France with a woman for whom I have come to love so dearly. It was not a trip I had ever planned on taking, but it was the perfect birthday and trip I will not soon forget.

Do you celebrate birthdays differently since your accident?

JG: Not really. Birthdays have always been low key events for me. As I said earlier, with the love and support of my friends and family birthdays and holidays were always joyous events. Being asymmetrical didn’t change that. 

Joseph, what are two or three things you know for sure?

JG: 1. Shit Happens  2. Compassion is the Way  3. With love, life is simple, anything is possible 

Love Comes In Waves

When I first started noticing couples surfing together, I wanted to know more about how a relationship with the ocean enhances a romantic relationship? I met Mike and Akiyo a few years ago. I’d see them on the beach and surfing solo or with friends and then started spotting them going out together. I could tell immediately a beautiful friendship radiated at the core of their life together.

How long have you been together? How did you meet?

A: In 2014, we met at an art opening event at a friend’s shop, Nepenthes, in Midtown and became friends. We started dating at the end of 2017. 

M: Me and Akiyo were friends before we became a couple. We met in 2014 at a friend's event in midtown. She said she just moved to NYC and was looking for people to surf with, and we said we were going surfing the next day. She showed up, and that was the beginning of our surf journey, which eventually led to us coupling up at the end of 2017.

Do you live in Rockaway or travel from the city to surf here?

M: We live in Brooklyn but actually lived in Long Beach, NY for 3 years before that.

What does surfing add to your life?

A: Excitement, life lessons, passion, appreciation, feeling blessed, socializing.

Before I got into it, I’d heard often that surfing is a lifestyle, and I wasn’t quite sure what that meant. Now I understand. It is really part of my life, our lives. I’m a hair and makeup artist, and I love it. My job and surfing are the main streams of my life.

M: Surfing is a pretty personal endeavor for me but to share waves and watch Akiyo get waves is exciting. I'm glad to have a partner who I hope can understand me. I'm lucky that she understands the froth and madness that comes with being engaged to surfing.

What does it bring to your relationship?

A: More excitement. More passion. More appreciation. More feeling blessed. I’m so happy and blessed that I have a partner who can share this lifestyle, passion and excitement. Surfing itself is already fun but with him everything becomes more!

How often do you surf together?

A: When we lived in Long Beach, it was like 4-5 times a week. Now probably 2-3 times a week.

M: We surf together as often as we are able. She, before we were even a pair, was the one partner I had who I could reliably call to go surfing because of her freelancing schedule and was game, even in the dead of winter. We even did the trifecta one year . . .  that's surfing in the morning, snowboarding during the day, and skateboarding at night.

Did one of you introduce the other to surfing or did you both already know how to surf when you met?

A: I was a beginner when I met him. He already knew how to surf. He did introduce me to mid length/longboarding two to three years ago though. When we first met we only surfed short boards. Now we ride everything, depending on conditions.

M: When we first met, she was into surfing but kind of a beginner. I was surfing for a bunch of years but really not that good either.

What other activities do you enjoy doing together?

A: Snowboarding, skateboarding, going to events, and chilling at home.

M: We enjoy snowboarding together. We also love chilling at home, unwinding. We are pretty much home bodies and an occasional events couple.

During the pandemic how has life been different for you? Has it changed your relationship with surfing?

A: Less work, more surf. Less other activities, more surf. Less going out to the city, more surf. My work was slow or none at one point in 2020. So I had more time for surfing. I used to go to the climbing gym, but I stopped because of the Pandemic. Instead I surfed more!

I keep in touch with friends in Japan where I’m from, but it was only by SMS or when I traveled back to Japan before the Pandemic. During the pandemic I chatted more with them in Japan. That was a kind of nice thing that happened because of the pandemic. I was so grateful that I lived by the beach and could surf and socialize with other surfers when people really couldn’t socialize in person other than with house members.

M: During the pandemic, because we lived a couple blocks from the beach, we just surfed our brains out. I think for me personally, it's translated into my personal interest in surf craft and riding different boards more. Also, it's kept me pretty happy just staying local and trying to find something to ride, even when forecasts look bad. Just happy to be in the water, feel more connected to chaos, with a healthy dose of respect and wonder.

Life Is Good

Jamie Song

Age 33

Fitness Trainer, Surfer

New York

If I remember right, you’ve talked about starting to surf, leaving it, and then starting again years later. Can you give some details on that?

In 2017 I took a few lessons in Rockaway. Had a lot of fun but back then I was working anywhere from 50-90hrs a week as a tax accountant and didn’t have time or mental capacity to commit to surfing. In 2018 I took a 4-weeks vacation in Hawaii, where living felt so good. I was so taken by surfing and hiking and just being surrounded by loving nature, I decided to quit my job, ha! Fast forward to 2021, with a lot more time and flexibility on my hand as a personal trainer, I picked up surfing again in Rockaway. After a few lessons with Chris (@surfwithchris), I was hooked this time, thoroughly.  

Surfing is not easy. It’s intimidating for a lot of people. You share inspiration and photos/videos via Instagram often where you talk about not having the perfect surf day. Yet every surf post is so positive: “One surf session stronger!” What encourages you to keep going as you’re learning?

It really is so hard!! isn’t it? Haha. My experienced surfer friends tell me that surfing becomes more and more fun, the better you get. So… if I’m already having this much fun, how exciting is it that it’s only going to get better? That’s what makes me go surfing whether it’s a scary big waves day or a flat day that doesn’t seem worth the trip. The more I wipe out, fight relentless currents, paddle hard only to miss waves after waves, tumble under the water for what feels like 15 seconds when it was probably like 3 seconds, the better surfer I become. And the better surfer I become, the more fun I’ll have :) 

Jamie riding the waves in Rockaway Beach, New York

What advice would you give to someone considering surf lessons?

Do it already! If you’re on the fence, sign up with your friends, so even if you end up hating surfing (which I doubt), you’ll have made it a fun beach day :)  I enjoyed taking my first few lessons with the same teacher @surfwithchris and then surfing as often as possible with my friend Offer so they could see my progress, explain to me how each session’s going to feel different depending on the surf condition of that day, and they’d know how much to push me out of my comfort zone as I progress. Also take at least 3-4 lessons before you decide whether surfing is for you or not! Surf conditions change so dramatically each day (and sometimes within hours), so your first lesson could be ‘meh’ but the next lesson could be amazing!

How has surfing changed you? What does surfing add to your life? Can you put into words the feeling you have out in the water, riding a wave?

It sounds funny/cheesy, but I adore the person I become when I’m surfing. Giddy the night before surfing. Giving big hugs and smiles to everyone I remotely know at the beach. Cracking up at everything and nothing. Amused by the ever-changing shapes of clouds, the cutest Piping Plover chicks running down the beach, the sands under my nails. It’s like regaining the long-lost curiosity/sensitivity of a happy child. My life seems ever so full and new and colorful since I started surfing. When I’m having a bad day I go surf. When I’m having a great day I go surf. The ocean never fails to remind me everything is temporary, bad or good. It puts me back into the current moment, to just be, and be okay. Riding a wave, still to me as a beginner, feels like “Is this really happening??” haha. It’s magical. 

As a fitness trainer, you know the importance of being physically and mentally fit. How does that figure into your workout routine and daily lifestyle?

Honestly it hasn’t been easy, introducing surfing into my routine. Surfing 1-3x/week, lifting 2-3x/week, and training clients all over lower Manhattan, it’s definitely physically taxing to my body. But I wouldn’t want it any other way. Surfing is a great cardio and upper body training, lifting is the best physical activity you can do for your overall health, and training clients is a rewarding job I’m lucky to have. All three nourish me physically and mentally.

What board are you riding? 

I just bought a 7’8” Torq board. I’ve moved from a 9’ foamie to an 8’4” NSP hardtop to a 7’6” board I got off Craigslist, which I realized was too difficult for me. I wasn’t catching as many waves on that board.  So I got a 7’8” Torq with a ton more volume. I’m having a lot of fun on this one.  

What’s an interesting fact about you that would surprise most people?

I had scoliosis surgery when I was 13 and my spine is fused with 14 long surgical pins and rods. I can’t curl or twist my spine. Who knew I’d become a personal trainer in my 30s with this robot back! Oh and I can lift 415lbs with my butt! 

Jamie, what are 2 or 3 things you know for sure?

One thing I’ve learned at this point in my life is to be at ease with the turbulence and uncertainties that either I’m going through or are imminent. When I was younger, I let myself get anxious, worry, and suffer from the “what ifs”, but now I’ve learned to be okay in the middle of turbulence. Kind of like on my surfboard on a choppy but still beautiful day out in the water. 

Everything is temporary - what seems grand and what seems awful, the aching wants and pressing needs. Things that used to matter a lot to my younger-self don’t carry much weight anymore. And then there are things that bring immeasurable happiness to me now that I never knew was possible. Being as fully present as possible, experiencing and riding it out until it lasts, and then being at ease with the next changes is what I’m trying to practice. 

Life is so good! Surfing makes it even better! I love it so much!

Love Will Prevail

Leandro Artigala

50, Artist, Architect, Surfer

Brooklyn, New York

Riley: When did you first start surfing?

Leandro: I started surfing when I was 15, thirty five years ago. Lucas, a good friend of mine, got me into surfing. At that time my friend was traveling every year, and for many years, together with his family to spend their summers in Brazil. A country where surfing was already very popular, particularly in comparison with Buenos Aires where the gap was pretty big for several reasons. First, Buenos Aires doesn’t have an ocean, just a huge river “Río de la Plata”, as a matter of fact the widest world wide. So in order for locals based in BA to get into the ocean they have to drive an average of 4 hours South, to the city of Mar del Plata, a beautiful place along the Atlantic. For this main reason, for many BA locals this was their summer destination city in the region. A city where surfing was already happening, not at the same pace as Brazil, but still. Basically Mar del Plata was the place where I did start and learn how to surf. The second important reason, and not the least, at that time (late 80’s) acquiring surfboards was very challenging and expensive. So Lucas not only gave me that first push literally, but let me use his wetsuits and boards, most of them traditional thrusters. Due to his Brazilian summer adventures, he was the guy with the largest quiver in town.

Riley: What places have you surfed? What makes Rockaway Beach stand out? Why does it hold a special place in your heart? 

Leandro: I’ve surfed in Chile, Peru, Brazil, California, and Southern California. Unfortunately I didn't get the chance, nor had the money or the time to travel and explore more points and surfing locations. Anyway those particular destinations that I did get the chance to visit, marked an important time and memory in my life. Rockaway, same as Long Beach, are my favorite places in the world, not only for its surfing, but its formidable people.

Riley: How many boards do you have? Do you have a favorite?

Leandro: At the moment (together with my 16 year old son) we have a total of 6 boards (two longboards, a mid length, and three thrusters). My favorite, the Jose Barahona light blue mid length board, I got for my 50th birthday. I do love all of them.

Riley: Summer surf? Or winter surf? And why?

Leandro: Summer and winter, Surf all year around. Because I love it, surfing is one of my passions. And it truly helps me exponentially with my mental, physical and spiritual health.

Leandro and friend Takashi Yamada at the Community Paddle Out for Asian Solidarity in Rockaway Beach, New York.

Riley: You recently were diagnosed with cancer. You and I have had many conversations about it. I’ve treasured your openness. What did your world look like before the diagnosis? How has life changed since?

Leandro: I’ve already forgotten how my world looked (seven months ago) and how it was to feel well before my diagnosis. I feel like my life was put on hold, that someone took it away. Together with surfing, that’s what I really miss the most.

Riley: The surf community is like no other. I know I’m biased, but the Rockaway surf community is extra special. How has the community and your surf friends supported you during this time? 

Leandro: There is a before and after Rockaway in my life. Same as there is a before and after my cancer. I can’t even imagine how it would be to transition into this new life, if I didn’t have Rockaway, if I didn’t have its community, if I didn’t have the friends and wonderful people that I was able to meet along these years through Rockaway.

Leandro’s son Lautaro out with his dad surfing Rockaway waves.

Riley: We met about 3 years ago. The first thing that stood out to me was watching you surf with your son, Lautaro. Why was that important to you? To share your love of surfing with your son. And what did you hope he would gain from your time together in the water?

Leandro: Surfing with my son is and means everything. Although it is quite hard to describe, put it into words and sum it up with one sentence. I’ve never pushed him or imposed it. At one point luckily enough Surfing for him was something quite natural, almost like walking. Without either of us noticing, all of a sudden we both ended up sitting on our boards at the lineup. I hope and believe he’ll get a lot out of the ocean, out of nature, out of surfing; his mind is already, and will literally blow up in such a good and amazing way. Nurturing him with life enriching, unforgettable and memorable experiences. Already touching our hearts and souls; our time in the water will live forever with us.

Riley: Leandro, two or three things you know for sure? 

Leandro: Rather three words: “Love Will Prevail”

Leandro recently set up a GoFund Me page to help with all of the unexpected expenses since his cancer diagnosis. Please check it out and help if you can. Thank you.