Love Comes In Waves

When I first started noticing couples surfing together, I wanted to know more about how a relationship with the ocean enhances a romantic relationship? I met Mike and Akiyo a few years ago. I’d see them on the beach and surfing solo or with friends and then started spotting them going out together. I could tell immediately a beautiful friendship radiated at the core of their life together.

How long have you been together? How did you meet?

A: In 2014, we met at an art opening event at a friend’s shop, Nepenthes, in Midtown and became friends. We started dating at the end of 2017. 

M: Me and Akiyo were friends before we became a couple. We met in 2014 at a friend's event in midtown. She said she just moved to NYC and was looking for people to surf with, and we said we were going surfing the next day. She showed up, and that was the beginning of our surf journey, which eventually led to us coupling up at the end of 2017.

Do you live in Rockaway or travel from the city to surf here?

M: We live in Brooklyn but actually lived in Long Beach, NY for 3 years before that.

What does surfing add to your life?

A: Excitement, life lessons, passion, appreciation, feeling blessed, socializing.

Before I got into it, I’d heard often that surfing is a lifestyle, and I wasn’t quite sure what that meant. Now I understand. It is really part of my life, our lives. I’m a hair and makeup artist, and I love it. My job and surfing are the main streams of my life.

M: Surfing is a pretty personal endeavor for me but to share waves and watch Akiyo get waves is exciting. I'm glad to have a partner who I hope can understand me. I'm lucky that she understands the froth and madness that comes with being engaged to surfing.

What does it bring to your relationship?

A: More excitement. More passion. More appreciation. More feeling blessed. I’m so happy and blessed that I have a partner who can share this lifestyle, passion and excitement. Surfing itself is already fun but with him everything becomes more!

How often do you surf together?

A: When we lived in Long Beach, it was like 4-5 times a week. Now probably 2-3 times a week.

M: We surf together as often as we are able. She, before we were even a pair, was the one partner I had who I could reliably call to go surfing because of her freelancing schedule and was game, even in the dead of winter. We even did the trifecta one year . . .  that's surfing in the morning, snowboarding during the day, and skateboarding at night.

Did one of you introduce the other to surfing or did you both already know how to surf when you met?

A: I was a beginner when I met him. He already knew how to surf. He did introduce me to mid length/longboarding two to three years ago though. When we first met we only surfed short boards. Now we ride everything, depending on conditions.

M: When we first met, she was into surfing but kind of a beginner. I was surfing for a bunch of years but really not that good either.

What other activities do you enjoy doing together?

A: Snowboarding, skateboarding, going to events, and chilling at home.

M: We enjoy snowboarding together. We also love chilling at home, unwinding. We are pretty much home bodies and an occasional events couple.

During the pandemic how has life been different for you? Has it changed your relationship with surfing?

A: Less work, more surf. Less other activities, more surf. Less going out to the city, more surf. My work was slow or none at one point in 2020. So I had more time for surfing. I used to go to the climbing gym, but I stopped because of the Pandemic. Instead I surfed more!

I keep in touch with friends in Japan where I’m from, but it was only by SMS or when I traveled back to Japan before the Pandemic. During the pandemic I chatted more with them in Japan. That was a kind of nice thing that happened because of the pandemic. I was so grateful that I lived by the beach and could surf and socialize with other surfers when people really couldn’t socialize in person other than with house members.

M: During the pandemic, because we lived a couple blocks from the beach, we just surfed our brains out. I think for me personally, it's translated into my personal interest in surf craft and riding different boards more. Also, it's kept me pretty happy just staying local and trying to find something to ride, even when forecasts look bad. Just happy to be in the water, feel more connected to chaos, with a healthy dose of respect and wonder.

Life Is Good

Jamie Song

Age 33

Fitness Trainer, Surfer

New York

If I remember right, you’ve talked about starting to surf, leaving it, and then starting again years later. Can you give some details on that?

In 2017 I took a few lessons in Rockaway. Had a lot of fun but back then I was working anywhere from 50-90hrs a week as a tax accountant and didn’t have time or mental capacity to commit to surfing. In 2018 I took a 4-weeks vacation in Hawaii, where living felt so good. I was so taken by surfing and hiking and just being surrounded by loving nature, I decided to quit my job, ha! Fast forward to 2021, with a lot more time and flexibility on my hand as a personal trainer, I picked up surfing again in Rockaway. After a few lessons with Chris (@surfwithchris), I was hooked this time, thoroughly.  

Surfing is not easy. It’s intimidating for a lot of people. You share inspiration and photos/videos via Instagram often where you talk about not having the perfect surf day. Yet every surf post is so positive: “One surf session stronger!” What encourages you to keep going as you’re learning?

It really is so hard!! isn’t it? Haha. My experienced surfer friends tell me that surfing becomes more and more fun, the better you get. So… if I’m already having this much fun, how exciting is it that it’s only going to get better? That’s what makes me go surfing whether it’s a scary big waves day or a flat day that doesn’t seem worth the trip. The more I wipe out, fight relentless currents, paddle hard only to miss waves after waves, tumble under the water for what feels like 15 seconds when it was probably like 3 seconds, the better surfer I become. And the better surfer I become, the more fun I’ll have :) 

Jamie riding the waves in Rockaway Beach, New York

What advice would you give to someone considering surf lessons?

Do it already! If you’re on the fence, sign up with your friends, so even if you end up hating surfing (which I doubt), you’ll have made it a fun beach day :)  I enjoyed taking my first few lessons with the same teacher @surfwithchris and then surfing as often as possible with my friend Offer so they could see my progress, explain to me how each session’s going to feel different depending on the surf condition of that day, and they’d know how much to push me out of my comfort zone as I progress. Also take at least 3-4 lessons before you decide whether surfing is for you or not! Surf conditions change so dramatically each day (and sometimes within hours), so your first lesson could be ‘meh’ but the next lesson could be amazing!

How has surfing changed you? What does surfing add to your life? Can you put into words the feeling you have out in the water, riding a wave?

It sounds funny/cheesy, but I adore the person I become when I’m surfing. Giddy the night before surfing. Giving big hugs and smiles to everyone I remotely know at the beach. Cracking up at everything and nothing. Amused by the ever-changing shapes of clouds, the cutest Piping Plover chicks running down the beach, the sands under my nails. It’s like regaining the long-lost curiosity/sensitivity of a happy child. My life seems ever so full and new and colorful since I started surfing. When I’m having a bad day I go surf. When I’m having a great day I go surf. The ocean never fails to remind me everything is temporary, bad or good. It puts me back into the current moment, to just be, and be okay. Riding a wave, still to me as a beginner, feels like “Is this really happening??” haha. It’s magical. 

As a fitness trainer, you know the importance of being physically and mentally fit. How does that figure into your workout routine and daily lifestyle?

Honestly it hasn’t been easy, introducing surfing into my routine. Surfing 1-3x/week, lifting 2-3x/week, and training clients all over lower Manhattan, it’s definitely physically taxing to my body. But I wouldn’t want it any other way. Surfing is a great cardio and upper body training, lifting is the best physical activity you can do for your overall health, and training clients is a rewarding job I’m lucky to have. All three nourish me physically and mentally.

What board are you riding? 

I just bought a 7’8” Torq board. I’ve moved from a 9’ foamie to an 8’4” NSP hardtop to a 7’6” board I got off Craigslist, which I realized was too difficult for me. I wasn’t catching as many waves on that board.  So I got a 7’8” Torq with a ton more volume. I’m having a lot of fun on this one.  

What’s an interesting fact about you that would surprise most people?

I had scoliosis surgery when I was 13 and my spine is fused with 14 long surgical pins and rods. I can’t curl or twist my spine. Who knew I’d become a personal trainer in my 30s with this robot back! Oh and I can lift 415lbs with my butt! 

Jamie, what are 2 or 3 things you know for sure?

One thing I’ve learned at this point in my life is to be at ease with the turbulence and uncertainties that either I’m going through or are imminent. When I was younger, I let myself get anxious, worry, and suffer from the “what ifs”, but now I’ve learned to be okay in the middle of turbulence. Kind of like on my surfboard on a choppy but still beautiful day out in the water. 

Everything is temporary - what seems grand and what seems awful, the aching wants and pressing needs. Things that used to matter a lot to my younger-self don’t carry much weight anymore. And then there are things that bring immeasurable happiness to me now that I never knew was possible. Being as fully present as possible, experiencing and riding it out until it lasts, and then being at ease with the next changes is what I’m trying to practice. 

Life is so good! Surfing makes it even better! I love it so much!

Zen Life

Takashi Yamada

51

Japanese Fashion Company Director, Model, Surfer

West Chester, New York

How were you introduced to surfing?

I surfed for the first time when I was 20 years old. At that time some of my friends had already started surfing together. Short board surfing was very challenging to me, and I didn’t enjoy it much. Longboard surfing was a game changer. 

Do you prefer surfing solo or with a friend(s)?

I usually surf with friends. If it’s Rockaway, I don’t mind going by myself, because there are always some familiar faces in the lineup. 

Surfing and Travel tend to go hand in hand. Where are the places you’ve surfed?

California, Barbados, Costa Rica, Maui, Oahu in Hawaii, and Bali, Indonesia. I enjoy surfing locally to avoid too much work for traveling. 

Are most of your friends surfers? What do you value most about the surf community? (locally & as a whole) 

Yes, most of my close friends are surfers. Respect is most important. We share the waves, and I do not say how they surf. But I’m always open to hearing advice from good surfers. 

Surfers usually have an ever growing collection of boards. Do you have a collection? What’s your favorite surfboard that you own? And why is it your favorite?

I’m not a collector. I have only 3 longboards, 1 mid length, a shortboard, and now a fish.

My Takayama longboard is my favorite because this is the first board I bought when I moved to NYC, and it's a really easy board. 

How has surfing changed you? What does surfing add to your life?

It’s a lot. I try to be healthy because I surf. Surfing is not easy. That's why I always try to improve with kook spirit! 

Can you put into words the feeling you have out in the water, riding a wave?

I feel a sense of unity with nature. It's Zen for me. 

I always find it so interesting to learn more about a surfer's background. You and I  recently did a photo shoot, and you talked about how you began modeling. I especially love stories about people doing new things later in their lives and careers. Could you talk about how you started modeling?

I started professional modeling several years ago. One of our clients asked me to model for them. Other customers saw me modeling and started asking me. Even Esquire Magazine reached out to me. Since then I model several times per season. To be honest, I was really surprised to become a model in my late forties. 

What are 2 or 3 things you know for sure?

*Surfing makes a healthy body and life.

*Surfing is the best tool to make friends. 

*Surfing releases stress, relieves anxiety, and brings clarity to the mind and the heart.

How can I stop surfing? 

Paddle Out Against Police Injustice Rockaway Beach, Queens

For the second time in June, our Rockaway Beach community came together to show solidarity and commitment to peaceful protests against police injustice in the world. Surfers paddled out in unison as the rest of the community, holding BLM signs and chanting no justice, no peace, cheered them on from the beach.

George Floyd Paddle Out In Rockaway Beach, New York

George Floyd Paddle Out, Rockaway Beach, NY, June 6, 2020

Honored to have my photos published on CNN and AM NY from the George Floyd Paddle Out. It was one of those monumental days where we all felt high from the adrenaline rush of making a stand, coming together, and taking an active part in an important moment in history. When we look back years from now, we’ll all remember where we were . . . in Rockaway Beach, Queens, on the beach and in the water offering a special gesture of peace & love in the name of humanity. Thank you Lou Harris and @black_surfing_rockaway for making it happen and bringing us all together. 🖤 🌊 ☮️

More photos from the Paddle Out are featured in my Personal Projects page. If you missed the first paddle out, Black Surfing Rockaway organized a second event for this Saturday, June 20, 2020. You can find more details on their instagram page.