Finding the Rhythm

Javii looking out at New York City waves in Rockaway Beach.

On a hot and sunny July morning, I ran into a friend on the beach as we both stopped and watched a surfer neither of us recognized. I’ve photographed surfers in Rockaway for years, and I can spot them by their style, their tell (everybody has a tell), and/or their board from a pretty far distance. I’d been shooting from my balcony as I did most mornings, but headed outside, wanting to get a closer shot of the unknown surfer. His style confident and strong, he caught airs one after the other, charging in a way that made the waves appear bigger than they were. East Coast surfers are gifted in that. I knew at once he traveled to surf, and I wanted to know more about him. After riding a wave to shore, he walked out and noticed me. I mean, it’s hard not to notice someone pointing a 400mm zoom lens at you. He had the most infectious smile, and I knew my camera would be drawn to him if we did a shoot together. His name was Javaun Brown, Javii for short, and he was from Jamaica. He was visiting NYC for the first time and staying with a friend he met on a surf trip to Puerto Rico. We exchanged information and made a date to shoot together.

A few days later, I met up with Javii at Beach 69, where he’d started temporarily working as a surf instructor, making extra money for his travels. He’d become savvy over the years at stretching his money and using his surf instructor skills to make money wherever he ended up. He was helping a surf student warm up before a lesson with David, the owner of Sierra Surf School. I watched Javii interact with the student, and how he was confident but not cocky. His movements slow and methodical, he had her mimic the moves, and she relaxed immediately. Afterwards, Javii and I walked downtown to find a less crowded spot. Our conversation was slow and thoughtful. We started with surfing but quickly eased into talking about everything: family, travel, and mental health. He was so easy to talk to, and I let my guard down at once. We bonded over similar struggles and our devotion to nature and the ocean.

Is this your first time in New York City?

JB: Yes this is my first time in New York City, my first time in the states, and my first time being away from home.

What do you think of it so far? Is it everything you thought it would be or different?

JB: I think New York City is a global center for many things, including culture, technology, finance, and other entertainment. Therefore there are lots of opportunities here that I haven't been exposed to. It is definitely different from what I thought it would be, because I’ve never really been to or seen a  big city before. Almost everything is new to me here, which is just a great experience for me and my life’s journey. Definitely lots of opportunities where I could make my way and find the rhythm of things I want to do. 

When did you first start surfing?

JB: I started surfing when I was 5 years old on a bodyboard. It was the best feeling I ever had at that age and point in time. Since then I’ve never stopped doing it, despite the challenges faced in my daily life. Surfing has changed my whole life and makes me the person I am today. 

How long have you been a surf instructor? What do you love about teaching someone to surf?

JB: I have been a surfing instructor for 9 years. I was certified 2 years ago, which helped me to go to school for a little bit, because my parents were financially unstable. I love teaching because I like to see people happy surfing the waves of their life and enjoying the ocean vibes. The ocean is a healing place. Making a difference—students may be going through difficult times in their lives, and surfing could help turn things around for them. Seeing students progress—it can be enjoyable to watch students learn the basics of surfing, like standing up on their first wave, as well as more advanced techniques. Sharing a passion—some people feel natural at coaching and enjoy sharing their love of surfing with others.
 

Localsurfer.javii  offers different experiences in the water: surfing, boat tours, water falls. Tell us more about your business and what clients can expect if they hire you?

JB: So my small business is what I live from. Sometimes it is not consistent enough, because not everyday we get tourists. Clients can expect a safe space, great local vibes, peaceful atmosphere, and all around positive vibes. I give undivided attention during each tour, and each tour is customized based on what the individual wants to do.

Have you always been an ocean lover? What inspired that love and appreciation? 

JB: Yes, I have always been an ocean lover, because I grew up around the ocean. I’ve spent all my life in and around the ocean, surfing, snorkeling, fishing, and sailing a boat. I live by the ocean. I think it is an ultimate resource that shouldn’t be taken for granted. It is just basically my life; everything I do revolves around the ocean. 

You’re a world traveler. Has travel always been a part of your life? 

JB: Yes, it has always been part of my life to travel and see different cultures, places and things, different perspectives of the world and its history and all the diversity of the world that is so unique. 

Where have you traveled and surfed that you loved the most and would go back again?

JB: I love Puerto Rico, El Salvador, and Panama. I would definitely go back to any one of these countries again. Also I’m open to new opportunities to surf other countries. 

You represented Jamaica at the ISA world surfing games in Puerto Rico back in March. What was that experience like?

JB: I loved it. It was a great experience, and I’m so grateful to have had it. I got to see most of the top tier surfers in the world that surf in the World Surf League and also surf with them. I normally watch on television; it was so inspiring to see them live in action. 

One of my favorite things about living in Rockaway is the community. It looks like you have a really supportive community at home too. What is that community like? What does community mean to you?

JB: My community is a very small village that is known for its clear waters, surfer-friendly waves and the shore's soft, powder-white sands. But even more prominently, Boston Beach is renowned for its delicious Jamaican eats. This beach claims to be the birthplace of jerk seasoning. So come hungry and ready to taste-test at nearby eateries, which feature jerk foods. The community means a lot to  me. Working and acting together, building friendships along with being united is vital to how we operate in the world. It is always home for me. 80% of the people in the community know me as that great surfer. I would love to get more surf equipment there and put my community on the map so people know that there’s great surfing in my community. 

I see that you’re always wearing this unique and beautiful elephant necklace. Is there special meaning behind it?

JB: I have been wearing this necklace since I was 17 years old. It means protection, stability, resilience, wisdom, and good luck in all fortunes. 

The heart of this journal is experiences in the wild. I live in New York City, but living by the beach is much different than living in the city. What does wild mean to you? How have you made sure to keep wildness at the heart of your daily living?

JB: Wild for me means living and growing in natural environments. It means you only get the day once so you might as well just live and enjoy it. Take everything for what it is, accept it and live the reality. 

When we shot together on the beach, we really connected over our shared mental health struggles. You told me about this magical place back home that helps you calm your mind and find peace when you're feeling down. Tell me more about that body of water and how it comforts you.

JB: This body of water is called the Blue Lagoon. It is located in Port Antonio and is a wildly popular travel destination for families and honeymooners. Glistening, turquoise blue water surrounded by lush greenery. The blue is a vision of beauty. The water seems to have a bit of magic to it, as the color changes throughout the day, depending upon the way the sun shines upon the surface. The vibes there are incomparable; warm sea water meets the mountain spring water. This water comforts me, because it heals my soul and always puts my mind at ease. I have an innate connection with this natural environment. 

You talk about meditation helping you be at ease with your thoughts. I've always found it challenging to meditate. Any advice for how to do it and how to incorporate it into daily life?

JB: Find a comfortable place, Bring mindfulness into meditation, Start your meditation. The challenge of focusing the mind. Get the hang of meditation and Bring your meditation to a close. In meditating I acknowledge wandering thoughts so I can let them go and return to focus. You notice your surroundings and the feelings within your body. Here are some ways to incorporate meditation in daily life: Start small, find a quiet place, focus on your breathing, use guided meditation, and be consistent in whatever you are doing. Connect it to an existing habit. 

Looks like you've continued your travels after NYC. Can you share some of the highlights?

JB: Yes, I have continued my travels after NYC. Some highlights: went back to Ohio to get the rest of my luggage together. Then headed back to my home land, where I only spent 2 weeks before taking off to Trestles in San Clemente, California to watch the WSL Final 5 event and to meet and greet some more legends in the surfing industry. I made some great memories, exploring and connecting with surfers, other people and companies, and picking up surfboard sponsorship from Lost Surfboard Mayhem by Matt Biolos. After that I entered a competition in Huntington Beach by A Great Day To Be Stoked, where I came in second place which was a big motivation for me. 

After that I went to El Salvador to chase waves, because it was flat ocean in Jamaica. It was great to surf and catch up with some old friends. Afterwards, I went to Puerto Rico to compete in the Corona pro circuit where I had a not so good experience, but I had a great time. Now I’m back in Jamaica. 

What’s next for you? Any other exciting travel or competitions?

JB: Honestly not sure what is next but I’m planning on going to Central America for a little bit. Another exciting trip I’d love to take is to set foot in the motherland (Africa). I have local competitions coming up. However, I'm not sure about international competitions. Life doesn’t always go how you plan. So I’m just following my heart and intuition.

Javii, what are two or three things you know for sure in this life?

JB: I know for sure I want to put Jamaican surfing on the map, competitive wise and friendly surf wise, letting people know there’s surfing in Jamaica. I know for sure I want to help and definitely build up my community. Last but not least, definitely build more on myself and my surfing career. 

You can follow along Javii’s journey on Instagram @localsurfer.javii

Five Toe Joe

Joseph “fivetoejoe” Glascott surfing in July at the AmpSurf event in Rockaway Beach, New York City

It’s a sunny Saturday morning in July. The water is warm, right around 70 degrees, and the sweet sound of yews echo up and down the beach. I’m swimming around surfers and AmpSurf volunteers, working hard to capture the pure joy of the moment. Bill’s out in the water too, shooting video. I turn my camera towards the jetty, playing with the uptown light, and at once I notice a surfer sitting in the lineup. We quickly start this dance: he gets in position, I get into position. It feels really familiar, and I wonder who he is. I’m guessing maybe he’s a volunteer who decided to catch a quick wave or two before things really got going. I shoot him turning the board around and then his arms paddling as drops of the ocean fall from his fingertips. His face is serious and focused. He spots his wave, paddling into it as the volunteers nearby make room, and we all watch and yell in unison. As I photograph him pop up close to shore, I realize at once he’s not a volunteer; he’s one of the participants. Like all the surfers I know and love, he gets right back on the board, and paddles back out. I shoot him as he glides through the water, the two of us making eye contact as we head farther out. Some of the volunteers circle around him, in awe of how well he surfs. I hear pieces of his story as he talks about his relationship with surfing—I’m certain I hear him say it’s been twenty years since he’s been back in the lineup.

A few weeks later, Joseph Glascott, driving his beloved Harley, meets up with Bill and me at Floyd Bennet Field. It’s surreal seeing the bike in person now that I know more of the story and how his motorcycle plays a key role. Joseph wears a white button down shirt and dark dress pants, a navy-blue patterned tie and pocket square tucked away in his backpack. It’s always weird to see a surfer in “street clothes.” I’ve photographed him before, and we’ve been talking often. It’s interesting doing photo shoots with friends, and he’s definitely my friend now. The three of us can’t stop laughing as we move around the location to unique spots I’ve scouted just for this day. At once, I see that this isn’t his first photoshoot. He’s mastered poses, knowing exactly how to position himself, just like in the water. I give little direction. He smiles and tells me he has a bit of experience with modeling/acting; he was in a Hot Wheels commercial back in the day. Bill is beyond excited! Later back home as we’re talking about what a unique shoot it was and how much fun we had, Joseph sends me a text. It’s the commercial. As we watch it several times with ear to ear grins, I think about him as a little kid, growing up, as he told me, surrounded by positivity, a lesson handed down from his Dad and a quality you notice the minute you talk to him. Like every great teacher, Joseph’s taken that inherited positivity, applied it to his own life, and freely paid it forward to the next generation and all of us lucky enough to call him friend.

When and where did you first start surfing?

JG: I started surfing, boogie boarding actually, when I was about 14/15 years old down at the West End 2 jetty. Started learning how to catch waves and the general rules of the line-up. Back then WE2 was pretty territorial so you had to learn fast. The next summer I borrowed my cousin's board, a 6’2 trifin thruster, that was hanging in my grandmother's garage, and paddled out for the first time. After that day I was hooked. It was tough learning at WE2 since I'm goofy foot and soon made Gilgo my home surf spot. Eventually, I moved up to an 8ft locally shaped board from a shop called Phoenix and often borrowed friends longboards down where we were at. 

Has water always been important in your life?

JG: The ocean became a shaping force in my young life. It provided me with many of the lessons young men need to learn at that age, like patience, humility, and the love of the natural world. It also taught me how to challenge myself, not allow fear to hold me back. The more time I spent in the water the more I wanted to learn about it and eventually got involved with ocean and environmental issues on Long Island.

Surfing again has reconnected me to a part of myself I thought was lost. - Joseph

When did you learn about Amp Surf? 

JG: I learned about AMPSURF from my girlfriend Kailey. She had listened to me talk about the good ol’ days of surfing back before I lost the leg and how much it meant to me and my life. She started asking why I didn’t surf anymore, and I listed all the reasons I gave away my board and why it was an impossibility in my current condition. This made her laugh because of the fact that riding motorcycles again was never in question, but for some reason surfing again seemed like an impossible task. So apparently there is this thing called Google, and she typed in amputee surfing, and Ampsurf was the first result to pop up. She wanted to surprise me by signing me up as a birthday gift but wasn’t sure if I would be into it. Needless to say, I was blown away by the thoughtfulness of the gift and that she believed I could do this even when I didn’t.

The loss of my leg and my new status as an Asymmetrical American™ 🤣 was brutal at first. - Joseph

Joseph, how did you lose your leg?

JG: I lost my leg in a hit-and-run motorcycle accident in Oct of 2008. While riding home from a friend's house, someone ran a stop sign, hit me off the bike and left me for dead in the street. They didn’t amputate the leg that night like they should have since my vascular sys in the leg was destroyed. I spent the next two months in the hospital. After eight or nine surgeries, the doctors said all they could do was keep cutting back the infected areas, and that's when they told me I had to make the decision to either keep going or to amputate the leg below the knee. It was the most difficult decision I had ever had to make, but understanding my situation could get worse if I didn’t, I made the choice to have them go ahead and remove the leg.

How has your life changed because of that loss?

JG: The loss of my leg and my new status as an Asymmetrical American™ 🤣 was brutal at first. The only thing that kept me going and in positive spirits was the love and support from my friends and family. That may seem cliche but it is the absolute truth. If it wasn’t for them, I wouldn't be here today. Recovery was steady but slow. I returned to work in January of 2009, even before I had my prosthetic. I am a school Librarian and missed my students. Getting back working with them helped a lot too. Once I healed up I started working with a great company called International Prosthetics and Orthotics. After a year or so with the help of a cane, an Irish Blackthorn to be specific, life started to get back to normal, or at least the new normal. I had to learn how to do many of the simple things of daily life all over again with consideration of the leg and balance and how to deal with the pain once I weaned myself off of the Dilaudid. One thing that didn't change was my love of motorcycles. I was up riding again in the fall of 2009. Yet, for some reason, the idea of surfing again seemed an impossibility until recently when someone I have come to care for very much signed me up for the AmpSurf event.

Wow, so you got right back on your motorcycle without hesitation?

JG: There was never a doubt in my mind that I was going to ride again. It took me about about a year or so to be healed up and strong enough to ride, but my good friend Irish Rob told me whenever I was ready I could take out one of his bikes. I spent a lot of time during my recovery at Rob’s house. So one day we were just hanging out, and the feeling, the need hit me. I asked Rob where the keys to Red were, red being his red ‘05 Sportser, and without hesitation he told me the keys were by the back door and that the garage was open. He didn’t make a big deal of it or even follow me out. He just let me have that moment to myself. I only rode up and down and around the block a few times that first time out, but in those few minutes I felt like I was whole again. 

What was that like going back to work? How did your students and coworkers react?

JG: Going back to work was challenging. I didn’t have my prosthetic yet and had to get around on my crutches and it was obvious that something was “missing.” At the time I was working at the Jr High School and the kids, like most kids, asked all the odd and awkward questions that only kids will ask and it was great. They were like, “sucks you lost your leg. Can I see it?” They had no pity, just empathy and curiosity. 

Tell me about the idea of using the nickname Five Toe Joe. 

JG: The nickname FiveToeJoe was given to me by my long-time friend and riding partner “Irish Rob.” Much of my recovery was spent at Rob's house in the garage working on motorcycles, drinking beer, and talking shit. Rob likes to break balls and bust chops and on one particular day we were carrying on about something ridiculous when he said “Hey five toe, let’s go.” Embracing the name helped turn something tragic into something of an identity to be proud of. Being disabled wasn’t something I was going to be ashamed of. So I embraced it head on, and FiveToeJoe was born.

Did you decide right away you were going to participate in the AmpSurf event?

JG: As soon as Kailey told me about it I was in. I did have some questions about whether or not someone with a below-the-knee prosthetic could participate. After a quick email to Dana, the founder of AmpSurf, I was assured that the coaches and volunteers would absolutely be able to accommodate my handicap and get me surfing again. 

I never thought I would be able to pop-up and surf again.

For the first time in twenty years, you were back in the line up. That was such a heavy statement to hear you say. Can you describe what that was like? Physically? Emotionally?

JG: Physically, it was a serious challenge, but the joy and adrenaline of being out there again kept me energized and paddling out for just one more wave every time I rode one in. I’ve found it difficult to work out over the years without getting hurt and wanted to get back into the water just for the workout. I never thought I would be able to pop-up and surf again. Emotionally, it is still tough to describe. I love being in the ocean. About a year ago I had my prosthetists at IPO make me a water leg so that I could walk into the ocean again. The idea of taking my leg off and floundering into the water was something I was embarrassed about. I had finally come to the point where I wanted to get more out of life and start getting back to doing things that brought joy to my life. On my 45th birthday, I was at my house in Maine and walked into the ocean for the first time since 2008. It was an emotionally overwhelming experience. Being in the ocean and connecting to something so much larger than oneself was a power I had not felt in a long time. Still, the idea of surfing was something I couldn't even imagine. It took the faith of someone I love to convince me I could do it. And because of that faith and belief in myself, I had one of the best days of my life with AMPSURF and plan to continue to keep getting out there.

How has surfing again affected you?

JG: Surfing again has reconnected me to a part of myself I thought was lost. Just sitting out there on the board, legs dangling, hand pushing through the surf, listening to the sounds of the ocean, I felt whole again. Also, rising to the challenge and accomplishing something I truly thought was impossible has motivated me to get out there more and challenge myself with other things I thought were out of reach.

Do you plan on surfing more?

JG: I absolutely plan on surfing more. I already started saving for a new board and hope to be back in the water next spring if not sooner.

If someone is considering participating in an event with an organization like Amp Surf, what kind of advice or words of encouragement would you share with them? What can they expect? And how do they push through the fear?

JG: AmpSurf is an incredible organization. From my early questions, to getting in the water, I felt supported the whole time. The event was well organized and every person involved was kind, friendly, and had so much genuine encouragement. I felt like there was no way I could fail. I would encourage anyone, regardless of their disability, to participate in an AmpSurf event. I felt safe and supported while on the beach receiving instructions to being in the water with the coaches and all of the amazing volunteers. So much so that I hope to be able to volunteer in any way I can at some of next year's events.

The idea behind The Wild Journal is living a life that’s connected to nature, the outdoors, and water, being totally aware of its importance. Wild means something different to everyone. What does wild mean to you?

JG: To me wild means freedom. Free to connect with who or whatever you love. Free to express yourself, and free to create the world around you. But something that is wild is also something to be respected, honored, and revered. The ocean and the world around us should be respected for its unique beauty and power. There is nothing so humbling as getting lost in the woods or being pounded by a wave to make you feel humble to the majesty that is Mother Nature.

You recently celebrated your birthday with a trip to Paris during the Olympics. You look happy and like you fit right in to the Parisian vibe. Is that a trip you’ve always thought about? 

JG: I’m my wildest imaginings I would never have believed that I would get to celebrate my birthday in Paris, France with a woman for whom I have come to love so dearly. It was not a trip I had ever planned on taking, but it was the perfect birthday and trip I will not soon forget.

Do you celebrate birthdays differently since your accident?

JG: Not really. Birthdays have always been low key events for me. As I said earlier, with the love and support of my friends and family birthdays and holidays were always joyous events. Being asymmetrical didn’t change that. 

Joseph, what are two or three things you know for sure?

JG: 1. Shit Happens  2. Compassion is the Way  3. With love, life is simple, anything is possible 

Love Comes In Waves

When I first started noticing couples surfing together, I wanted to know more about how a relationship with the ocean enhances a romantic relationship? I met Mike and Akiyo a few years ago. I’d see them on the beach and surfing solo or with friends and then started spotting them going out together. I could tell immediately a beautiful friendship radiated at the core of their life together.

How long have you been together? How did you meet?

A: In 2014, we met at an art opening event at a friend’s shop, Nepenthes, in Midtown and became friends. We started dating at the end of 2017. 

M: Me and Akiyo were friends before we became a couple. We met in 2014 at a friend's event in midtown. She said she just moved to NYC and was looking for people to surf with, and we said we were going surfing the next day. She showed up, and that was the beginning of our surf journey, which eventually led to us coupling up at the end of 2017.

Do you live in Rockaway or travel from the city to surf here?

M: We live in Brooklyn but actually lived in Long Beach, NY for 3 years before that.

What does surfing add to your life?

A: Excitement, life lessons, passion, appreciation, feeling blessed, socializing.

Before I got into it, I’d heard often that surfing is a lifestyle, and I wasn’t quite sure what that meant. Now I understand. It is really part of my life, our lives. I’m a hair and makeup artist, and I love it. My job and surfing are the main streams of my life.

M: Surfing is a pretty personal endeavor for me but to share waves and watch Akiyo get waves is exciting. I'm glad to have a partner who I hope can understand me. I'm lucky that she understands the froth and madness that comes with being engaged to surfing.

What does it bring to your relationship?

A: More excitement. More passion. More appreciation. More feeling blessed. I’m so happy and blessed that I have a partner who can share this lifestyle, passion and excitement. Surfing itself is already fun but with him everything becomes more!

How often do you surf together?

A: When we lived in Long Beach, it was like 4-5 times a week. Now probably 2-3 times a week.

M: We surf together as often as we are able. She, before we were even a pair, was the one partner I had who I could reliably call to go surfing because of her freelancing schedule and was game, even in the dead of winter. We even did the trifecta one year . . .  that's surfing in the morning, snowboarding during the day, and skateboarding at night.

Did one of you introduce the other to surfing or did you both already know how to surf when you met?

A: I was a beginner when I met him. He already knew how to surf. He did introduce me to mid length/longboarding two to three years ago though. When we first met we only surfed short boards. Now we ride everything, depending on conditions.

M: When we first met, she was into surfing but kind of a beginner. I was surfing for a bunch of years but really not that good either.

What other activities do you enjoy doing together?

A: Snowboarding, skateboarding, going to events, and chilling at home.

M: We enjoy snowboarding together. We also love chilling at home, unwinding. We are pretty much home bodies and an occasional events couple.

During the pandemic how has life been different for you? Has it changed your relationship with surfing?

A: Less work, more surf. Less other activities, more surf. Less going out to the city, more surf. My work was slow or none at one point in 2020. So I had more time for surfing. I used to go to the climbing gym, but I stopped because of the Pandemic. Instead I surfed more!

I keep in touch with friends in Japan where I’m from, but it was only by SMS or when I traveled back to Japan before the Pandemic. During the pandemic I chatted more with them in Japan. That was a kind of nice thing that happened because of the pandemic. I was so grateful that I lived by the beach and could surf and socialize with other surfers when people really couldn’t socialize in person other than with house members.

M: During the pandemic, because we lived a couple blocks from the beach, we just surfed our brains out. I think for me personally, it's translated into my personal interest in surf craft and riding different boards more. Also, it's kept me pretty happy just staying local and trying to find something to ride, even when forecasts look bad. Just happy to be in the water, feel more connected to chaos, with a healthy dose of respect and wonder.

Life Is Good

Jamie Song

Age 33

Fitness Trainer, Surfer

New York

If I remember right, you’ve talked about starting to surf, leaving it, and then starting again years later. Can you give some details on that?

In 2017 I took a few lessons in Rockaway. Had a lot of fun but back then I was working anywhere from 50-90hrs a week as a tax accountant and didn’t have time or mental capacity to commit to surfing. In 2018 I took a 4-weeks vacation in Hawaii, where living felt so good. I was so taken by surfing and hiking and just being surrounded by loving nature, I decided to quit my job, ha! Fast forward to 2021, with a lot more time and flexibility on my hand as a personal trainer, I picked up surfing again in Rockaway. After a few lessons with Chris (@surfwithchris), I was hooked this time, thoroughly.  

Surfing is not easy. It’s intimidating for a lot of people. You share inspiration and photos/videos via Instagram often where you talk about not having the perfect surf day. Yet every surf post is so positive: “One surf session stronger!” What encourages you to keep going as you’re learning?

It really is so hard!! isn’t it? Haha. My experienced surfer friends tell me that surfing becomes more and more fun, the better you get. So… if I’m already having this much fun, how exciting is it that it’s only going to get better? That’s what makes me go surfing whether it’s a scary big waves day or a flat day that doesn’t seem worth the trip. The more I wipe out, fight relentless currents, paddle hard only to miss waves after waves, tumble under the water for what feels like 15 seconds when it was probably like 3 seconds, the better surfer I become. And the better surfer I become, the more fun I’ll have :) 

Jamie riding the waves in Rockaway Beach, New York

What advice would you give to someone considering surf lessons?

Do it already! If you’re on the fence, sign up with your friends, so even if you end up hating surfing (which I doubt), you’ll have made it a fun beach day :)  I enjoyed taking my first few lessons with the same teacher @surfwithchris and then surfing as often as possible with my friend Offer so they could see my progress, explain to me how each session’s going to feel different depending on the surf condition of that day, and they’d know how much to push me out of my comfort zone as I progress. Also take at least 3-4 lessons before you decide whether surfing is for you or not! Surf conditions change so dramatically each day (and sometimes within hours), so your first lesson could be ‘meh’ but the next lesson could be amazing!

How has surfing changed you? What does surfing add to your life? Can you put into words the feeling you have out in the water, riding a wave?

It sounds funny/cheesy, but I adore the person I become when I’m surfing. Giddy the night before surfing. Giving big hugs and smiles to everyone I remotely know at the beach. Cracking up at everything and nothing. Amused by the ever-changing shapes of clouds, the cutest Piping Plover chicks running down the beach, the sands under my nails. It’s like regaining the long-lost curiosity/sensitivity of a happy child. My life seems ever so full and new and colorful since I started surfing. When I’m having a bad day I go surf. When I’m having a great day I go surf. The ocean never fails to remind me everything is temporary, bad or good. It puts me back into the current moment, to just be, and be okay. Riding a wave, still to me as a beginner, feels like “Is this really happening??” haha. It’s magical. 

As a fitness trainer, you know the importance of being physically and mentally fit. How does that figure into your workout routine and daily lifestyle?

Honestly it hasn’t been easy, introducing surfing into my routine. Surfing 1-3x/week, lifting 2-3x/week, and training clients all over lower Manhattan, it’s definitely physically taxing to my body. But I wouldn’t want it any other way. Surfing is a great cardio and upper body training, lifting is the best physical activity you can do for your overall health, and training clients is a rewarding job I’m lucky to have. All three nourish me physically and mentally.

What board are you riding? 

I just bought a 7’8” Torq board. I’ve moved from a 9’ foamie to an 8’4” NSP hardtop to a 7’6” board I got off Craigslist, which I realized was too difficult for me. I wasn’t catching as many waves on that board.  So I got a 7’8” Torq with a ton more volume. I’m having a lot of fun on this one.  

What’s an interesting fact about you that would surprise most people?

I had scoliosis surgery when I was 13 and my spine is fused with 14 long surgical pins and rods. I can’t curl or twist my spine. Who knew I’d become a personal trainer in my 30s with this robot back! Oh and I can lift 415lbs with my butt! 

Jamie, what are 2 or 3 things you know for sure?

One thing I’ve learned at this point in my life is to be at ease with the turbulence and uncertainties that either I’m going through or are imminent. When I was younger, I let myself get anxious, worry, and suffer from the “what ifs”, but now I’ve learned to be okay in the middle of turbulence. Kind of like on my surfboard on a choppy but still beautiful day out in the water. 

Everything is temporary - what seems grand and what seems awful, the aching wants and pressing needs. Things that used to matter a lot to my younger-self don’t carry much weight anymore. And then there are things that bring immeasurable happiness to me now that I never knew was possible. Being as fully present as possible, experiencing and riding it out until it lasts, and then being at ease with the next changes is what I’m trying to practice. 

Life is so good! Surfing makes it even better! I love it so much!

Zen Life

Takashi Yamada

51

Japanese Fashion Company Director, Model, Surfer

West Chester, New York

How were you introduced to surfing?

I surfed for the first time when I was 20 years old. At that time some of my friends had already started surfing together. Short board surfing was very challenging to me, and I didn’t enjoy it much. Longboard surfing was a game changer. 

Do you prefer surfing solo or with a friend(s)?

I usually surf with friends. If it’s Rockaway, I don’t mind going by myself, because there are always some familiar faces in the lineup. 

Surfing and Travel tend to go hand in hand. Where are the places you’ve surfed?

California, Barbados, Costa Rica, Maui, Oahu in Hawaii, and Bali, Indonesia. I enjoy surfing locally to avoid too much work for traveling. 

Are most of your friends surfers? What do you value most about the surf community? (locally & as a whole) 

Yes, most of my close friends are surfers. Respect is most important. We share the waves, and I do not say how they surf. But I’m always open to hearing advice from good surfers. 

Surfers usually have an ever growing collection of boards. Do you have a collection? What’s your favorite surfboard that you own? And why is it your favorite?

I’m not a collector. I have only 3 longboards, 1 mid length, a shortboard, and now a fish.

My Takayama longboard is my favorite because this is the first board I bought when I moved to NYC, and it's a really easy board. 

How has surfing changed you? What does surfing add to your life?

It’s a lot. I try to be healthy because I surf. Surfing is not easy. That's why I always try to improve with kook spirit! 

Can you put into words the feeling you have out in the water, riding a wave?

I feel a sense of unity with nature. It's Zen for me. 

I always find it so interesting to learn more about a surfer's background. You and I  recently did a photo shoot, and you talked about how you began modeling. I especially love stories about people doing new things later in their lives and careers. Could you talk about how you started modeling?

I started professional modeling several years ago. One of our clients asked me to model for them. Other customers saw me modeling and started asking me. Even Esquire Magazine reached out to me. Since then I model several times per season. To be honest, I was really surprised to become a model in my late forties. 

What are 2 or 3 things you know for sure?

*Surfing makes a healthy body and life.

*Surfing is the best tool to make friends. 

*Surfing releases stress, relieves anxiety, and brings clarity to the mind and the heart.

How can I stop surfing? 

Enjoy The Ride

Terra Layne

Age 29

Actor, Model, Surfer

Rockaway Beach, NYC

How did you get into surfing?

I’m big into adventure sports although surfing was always very intimidating to me. I’d tried it out a couple times but it wasn’t till I moved to NYC that I found myself craving mother nature and her unpredictable thrill. Believe it or not I “caught the bug” in February of all months - when a friend started inviting me to tag along his surf-escapades to Rockaway and Montauk, I took the opportunity. I was unemployed and needed a release. Surfing was the best way to take my mind off of everything that worried me, it forced me to focus on one thing and one thing only. Even on the days I caught not a single wave, I was out enjoying nature, and only 40 minutes from my home in BK. 

We’re definitely seeing more female surfers in the lineup these days. What would you say to encourage more women who are considering learning how to surf? 

Don’t be intimidated by anyone. Those that are trying to intimidate you are doing so on purpose, it’s selfish and are choosing to uphold the privilege and patriarchy they were born with. With that said, it’s a dangerous sport even if you know what you’re doing, definitely learn the etiquette before heading out - Youtube will do a better job at explaining this than anyone on the beach. Don’t be shy when you’re out there, the more open you are about your experience the more likely you’ll meet people who are willing to support you. You got this!

What is the dynamic in the water for female surfers?

It’s a total contradiction to my morality. Let me explain. You know that feeling you get when you walk into a room that you’re not supposed to be in and everyone turns to look at you, it’s a little like that. Paddling out on big days I’m often the only female surfer out there at my local jetty. It sucks feeling like I have to prove myself, but once I do, I’m the anomaly, I’m celebrated. This is where I morally suffer, women doing what men do on a surfboard shouldn’t be a rarity. Times are a changing. 

Terra and roommate Tori surfing in New York winter.

Do you prefer surfing solo or with a friend(s)?

Depends on the day. No matter what, having a friend out there is always a positive thing, especially my ladies. Nothing brings me a greater sense of exuberance than women cheering for other women.

Are most of your friends surfers? What do you value most about the surf community? (locally & as a whole) 

In Rockaway, yes, but not exclusively. I’ve got groups of friends that live elsewhere who are by no means surfers, I love them too. I suppose I’m drawn to friendships that also entail surfing out here in Rockaway because like all relationships, we yearn for connection. Surfing is a beautiful way of connecting with nature, together, and apart. There’s a level of appreciation for the environment of the ocean. Anyone who’s out there surfing finds it. And the second you forget it, you’re in big trouble.  

Surfing and Travel tend to go hand in hand. Where are the places you’ve surfed?

I started really surfing in the winter of 2019, ie: a year before the pandemic. I’ve surfed along the coast of Cali, the BVI’s. I did some minimal surfing in Puerto Rico, Australia, Bali, and Sri Lanka but that was before I had any clue what I was doing. I haven’t got a ton of surf excursions under my belt, but I’ve got time :) 

Surfers usually have an ever growing collection of boards. Do you have a collection? What’s your favorite surfboard that you own? And why is it your favorite?

Yes, my roommate Tori and I have a gorgeous collection of boards, and yes, they are organized by height in our garage. I’m going to sound crazy saying this but my favorite board is one that I’ve yet to surf! For the last year I’ve been loving my 8’2 Ricky Carroll, which is like a sporty longboard. Though one board has always had my heart and it’s Channel Islands, Al Merrick, Water Hog. I’ve been looking for this board, used (I’m a starving artist), for 3 years. I finally bought a 7’6 off craigslist a week ago; I nearly cried with excitement. Maneuverability, I’ve woven through summer crowds on a weekend, that level of confidence and comfortability is worth all the tea in China. 

How has surfing changed you? What does surfing add to your life?

It’s given me the balance I need to survive NYC. I’m not cut out for strictly city life, I admire those who can do it but ultimately, space and silence are necessities for my mental health. Surfing has brought me community but within that, it’s also brought me confidence and structure. The effort put into waking up early, making time to practice self care, being present in the moment, the challenges, the failures, there are so many good habits surfing has given back to me. 

Can you put into words the feeling you have out in the water, riding a wave?

You’re synchronizing with a motion that’s traveled thousands of miles, and that energy, that force - you’re riding on top of it, you can feel it beneath you. And then it’s gone! It’s mother nature's magic show. 

What’s an interesting fact about you that would surprise most people?

In 2017 I set out by myself and hiked the South Island of New Zealand, 900 miles top to bottom. Hiking poles look stupid but are life saving - literally. 

Terra, what are 2 or 3 things you know for sure?

Intelligence is subjective, animals are intelligent, eating animals is ethically wrong. Not exclusively, but if you have the privilege to question it, it definitely is.  

Small movements are the start of anything big. 

In the grand scheme of things we are all specks of dust, be kind and enjoy the ride. 

Love Will Prevail

Leandro Artigala

50, Artist, Architect, Surfer

Brooklyn, New York

Riley: When did you first start surfing?

Leandro: I started surfing when I was 15, thirty five years ago. Lucas, a good friend of mine, got me into surfing. At that time my friend was traveling every year, and for many years, together with his family to spend their summers in Brazil. A country where surfing was already very popular, particularly in comparison with Buenos Aires where the gap was pretty big for several reasons. First, Buenos Aires doesn’t have an ocean, just a huge river “Río de la Plata”, as a matter of fact the widest world wide. So in order for locals based in BA to get into the ocean they have to drive an average of 4 hours South, to the city of Mar del Plata, a beautiful place along the Atlantic. For this main reason, for many BA locals this was their summer destination city in the region. A city where surfing was already happening, not at the same pace as Brazil, but still. Basically Mar del Plata was the place where I did start and learn how to surf. The second important reason, and not the least, at that time (late 80’s) acquiring surfboards was very challenging and expensive. So Lucas not only gave me that first push literally, but let me use his wetsuits and boards, most of them traditional thrusters. Due to his Brazilian summer adventures, he was the guy with the largest quiver in town.

Riley: What places have you surfed? What makes Rockaway Beach stand out? Why does it hold a special place in your heart? 

Leandro: I’ve surfed in Chile, Peru, Brazil, California, and Southern California. Unfortunately I didn't get the chance, nor had the money or the time to travel and explore more points and surfing locations. Anyway those particular destinations that I did get the chance to visit, marked an important time and memory in my life. Rockaway, same as Long Beach, are my favorite places in the world, not only for its surfing, but its formidable people.

Riley: How many boards do you have? Do you have a favorite?

Leandro: At the moment (together with my 16 year old son) we have a total of 6 boards (two longboards, a mid length, and three thrusters). My favorite, the Jose Barahona light blue mid length board, I got for my 50th birthday. I do love all of them.

Riley: Summer surf? Or winter surf? And why?

Leandro: Summer and winter, Surf all year around. Because I love it, surfing is one of my passions. And it truly helps me exponentially with my mental, physical and spiritual health.

Leandro and friend Takashi Yamada at the Community Paddle Out for Asian Solidarity in Rockaway Beach, New York.

Riley: You recently were diagnosed with cancer. You and I have had many conversations about it. I’ve treasured your openness. What did your world look like before the diagnosis? How has life changed since?

Leandro: I’ve already forgotten how my world looked (seven months ago) and how it was to feel well before my diagnosis. I feel like my life was put on hold, that someone took it away. Together with surfing, that’s what I really miss the most.

Riley: The surf community is like no other. I know I’m biased, but the Rockaway surf community is extra special. How has the community and your surf friends supported you during this time? 

Leandro: There is a before and after Rockaway in my life. Same as there is a before and after my cancer. I can’t even imagine how it would be to transition into this new life, if I didn’t have Rockaway, if I didn’t have its community, if I didn’t have the friends and wonderful people that I was able to meet along these years through Rockaway.

Leandro’s son Lautaro out with his dad surfing Rockaway waves.

Riley: We met about 3 years ago. The first thing that stood out to me was watching you surf with your son, Lautaro. Why was that important to you? To share your love of surfing with your son. And what did you hope he would gain from your time together in the water?

Leandro: Surfing with my son is and means everything. Although it is quite hard to describe, put it into words and sum it up with one sentence. I’ve never pushed him or imposed it. At one point luckily enough Surfing for him was something quite natural, almost like walking. Without either of us noticing, all of a sudden we both ended up sitting on our boards at the lineup. I hope and believe he’ll get a lot out of the ocean, out of nature, out of surfing; his mind is already, and will literally blow up in such a good and amazing way. Nurturing him with life enriching, unforgettable and memorable experiences. Already touching our hearts and souls; our time in the water will live forever with us.

Riley: Leandro, two or three things you know for sure? 

Leandro: Rather three words: “Love Will Prevail”

Leandro recently set up a GoFund Me page to help with all of the unexpected expenses since his cancer diagnosis. Please check it out and help if you can. Thank you.

Paddle Out Against Police Injustice Rockaway Beach, Queens

For the second time in June, our Rockaway Beach community came together to show solidarity and commitment to peaceful protests against police injustice in the world. Surfers paddled out in unison as the rest of the community, holding BLM signs and chanting no justice, no peace, cheered them on from the beach.

George Floyd Paddle Out In Rockaway Beach, New York

George Floyd Paddle Out, Rockaway Beach, NY, June 6, 2020

Honored to have my photos published on CNN and AM NY from the George Floyd Paddle Out. It was one of those monumental days where we all felt high from the adrenaline rush of making a stand, coming together, and taking an active part in an important moment in history. When we look back years from now, we’ll all remember where we were . . . in Rockaway Beach, Queens, on the beach and in the water offering a special gesture of peace & love in the name of humanity. Thank you Lou Harris and @black_surfing_rockaway for making it happen and bringing us all together. 🖤 🌊 ☮️

More photos from the Paddle Out are featured in my Personal Projects page. If you missed the first paddle out, Black Surfing Rockaway organized a second event for this Saturday, June 20, 2020. You can find more details on their instagram page.