The Sun and the Moon and the Stars

Farmata Dia, raised by Senegalese immigrant parents in Far Rockaway, New York, discovered her passion for surfing and mentoring through The Laru Beya Collective in 2016. Committed to empowering young women of color, she advocates for women’s rights, environmental justice, and community upliftment. As a mentor and model, she is breaking barriers and redefining representation in surfing, modeling, and skating.

“Really immerse yourself in the community. These days, it’s all about who you know more than what you know. It only takes one person to change your life or jump-start your career.”

— Farmata

Farmy and Rockaway are synonymous. She is as much a fixture in this intimate hamlet by the sea as dolphins, jetties, and surfboards. I’ve known her almost as long as I’ve been in Rockaway but honestly can’t remember what it was like not to know her. And as cliché as it is, to know Farmy is to love her. She’s fun, fearless, honest, quirky, and cool. Our friendship blooms in a constant drift of creative and personal growth. Farmy and I work together often, shooting surf, a film (still in the works), and numerous Laru Beya events. Always up for anything, she excitedly agreed to model for this surf culture meets fashion photo shoot in a unique to us beach location. We used my beloved Dry Robe changing robe as a dressing room and shot three different looks thrifted and styled by me. We started our shoot with a blood red Xscape cocktail dress, next a Shein satin baby blue cocktail dress, and wrapped up the late afternoon with a black Bebe blazer, Uniqlo dress pants, a black tie borrowed from my husband’s wardrobe, and a Fahizo silk bow tie. The last part of the shoot I added a little body glitter to play off the light from the sun and the moon, both competing as our backdrop, while Farmy stood tall among the dunes and butterflies danced around us.

*No dunes were touched as we only used established beach paths for our entire shoot.

You’ve been enjoying great success with your modeling career, shooting with cool brands and publications like Teva, Finisterre, Heroine Mag, and Teen Vogue. I’m always hyped when I see your photo pop up on brand pages. I’m wondering if you have a shoot that really stands out in your mind as momentous?  

“ To be wild is to be yourself. ”

— Farmata

FD: My favorite shoot to date would probably be the campaign trip with Seea. We traveled to what felt like paradise and surfed some of the longest waves I’ve ever experienced—waves that made my legs burn, gave me time to think, and let me create incredible memories with beautiful people. While the surfing was incredible, it was the group I traveled with that made the trip so special.  

My dream of surfing with one of my idols, Leah Dawson, came true. Leah truly embodies the art of surfing. The media crew was full of talented creatives who made shooting effortless, and the Seea team was inspirational with their hard work and dedication. Jo and Annabelle, the other winners, were so cool. Hearing their stories and realizing how we all ended up in the same place was such a unique experience.  

Any advice for someone interested in modeling?  

FD: My advice would be to start by building a portfolio. The first step is getting your digitals done. From there, connect with small photographers, stylists, and other models—really immerse yourself in the community. These days, it’s all about who you know more than what you know. It only takes one person to change your life or jump-start your career. Attend events, make sure people see your face, and post often on social media. Share fun things about yourself—it doesn’t have to be just photos. Videos showcasing your personality, adventures, or interests can go a long way.  

Farmy models a Doyle Surfboard

What are some of your favorite brands you’ve worked with?  

FD: Some of my favorite brands are Finisterre, Seea, Ricki Beach Club, Vans, Fat Tire, and Kings Glassing. I’ve been so fortunate to travel the world with them—it’s honestly hard to keep up sometimes! Going to Europe for the first time with Finisterre is one of my top three trips. Their focus on sustainability and ethical practices resonates deeply with me. I like to joke that they’re what Patagonia wishes it could be! Creating my own sustainable swimwear collection with Ricki Beach Club was another highlight. The process was so smooth, and using my community and personal experiences as inspiration for the designs felt like a dream come true. Fat Tire is such a fun brand! Every adventure I’ve shared with them has been a delight. I even got to shape my first surfboard with Kings Glassing, which was a surreal moment. That experience was especially meaningful because we raffled off some boards to support a Laru Beya fundraiser.  

“The more we invest in our community, the better our quality of life. ”

— Farmata

What’s a brand you’d like to work with but haven’t yet?  

FD: I’d love to branch out and collaborate with brands beyond the surf world. Red Bull or Monster, for example, do such cool things with their crews and events. Also, I’ve been fascinated by wave pools lately! I’d love to work with a wave pool brand or become an ambassador for one—it’s such a unique and fun experience that not many people get to have. Another dream is to find the intersection between high fashion and surf culture. I’d love to explore collaborations involving clothing, accessories, and shoes that merge those two worlds.  

We’ve talked many times about your complicated relationship with Rockaway. I think everyone has some sort of challenge with home. Growing up, you hated it and felt like there was nothing to do. The ocean and surfing changed all that. Where are you now in your ever-evolving relationship with this place?  

FD: Right now, I feel at peace with Rockaway. This community has done so much to shape who I am today. I’ve created so many beautiful memories here that I’ll cherish forever. That said, growing up here my entire life, I’m starting to feel the routine of it—the same faces, the same surf breaks, the same travel patterns. It’s starting to feel stagnant. I’ve been saying this for years, but I really want to move to California. That’s my goal after I finish school. I feel like once I’ve wrapped up what I need to do here, I’ll be ready for new waves, new faces, and a different flow of life.  

“No matter how hard life feels, everything will be okay. The highs and lows allow us to appreciate both sides of life.  ”

— Farmata

Congratulations on going back to school! Where and what are you studying? And what made you decide to take that huge leap and return?  

FD: I’m studying Professional Communication at Brooklyn College. The past few years have given me so much clarity about my purpose in life and how I want to impact the world. Speaking on panels and becoming a voice in my community inspired me to go back to school. Being surrounded by so many intelligent people can sometimes feel overwhelming—I often feel like I don’t know enough. Going back to school is partly for me, to prove that I can do it. It’s a personal challenge that will also help me grow and add value to my work.  

What’s your plan for after graduation?  

FD: While I’m in school, my plan is to save as much money as I can and prepare to move to California. Once I graduate, I’m hoping to make the move within a few months. I recently started a new job with the Justice Center, and I was excited to learn that they have locations in California where I could potentially transfer. Surfing brings me joy, but building community and making a direct impact is what keeps me going. My long-term goal is to open my own nonprofit. I’ll continue working toward that dream while growing my community and honing my surfing skills in California.  

What are you reading right now?  

FD: I just finished Where the Crawdads Sing, The Love Hypothesis, and If Beale Street Could Talk. Each of these books resonated with me in different ways. Crawdads reminded me of my upbringing and childhood mentality. The Love Hypothesis was a light, fun read that took me back to my Wattpad days, staying up until 1 a.m. crying over fanfiction. I’ve been intentional about finding books that help me learn about myself and explore the world through different perspectives.  

Farmata models an Almond Surfboard

What is one thing people would be surprised to know about you?  

FD: I’m a total weirdo, haha. I’m much more awkward than people expect when I meet them—I tend to overthink everything. I also love anime! I grew up watching it and still do. Oh, and I’m a Leo. One of my favorite animals? A worm.  

Over a great conversation about a recent trip to Idaho, we shared laughs about stretching creative and personal boundaries. Can you tell us about that trip?  

FD: My trip to Idaho felt like a dream. The warm sun on my face while looking at snow-covered mountaintops—it was surreal. Hanging with Terumi and Autumn in the middle of nowhere felt magical. We recreated beautiful photos of past Olympians but with a cultural twist. The outfits, makeup, and storyline were all out of this world.  

What does *Wild* mean to you?  

FD: To be wild is to be yourself. For me, the hardest part of my journey has been loving every part of who I am—the good, the bad, and the messy. I think once you reach that point of self-acceptance, you can truly live life to the fullest. I feel my most wild when I’m with my friends, doing crazy dances and making random noises.  

What are two or three things you know for sure?  

FD:  

1. One thing I know for sure is that I don’t know anything! There’s always something new to learn and a fresh perspective to consider.  

2. No matter how hard life feels, everything will be okay. The highs and lows allow us to appreciate both sides of life.  

3. The more we invest in our community, the better our quality of life. Being with Laru Beya for the past seven years has taught me that the grass really is greener where you water it. Share resources, show up for one another, and create spaces that uplift everyone. 

A Beautiful Purpose

Jose riding waves at Kuta Beach

Jose’, Thank you so much for doing this interview with me. We’ve only known each other for a few months, but I can honestly say it feels like I’ve known you my whole life. I felt an instant connection to you, and Bill did too. I know a lot of people must feel the same when they meet you. You simply radiate as a person. I believe we will see each other again soon. Maybe in Lombok, maybe somewhere else, but definitely it’s our destiny to reconnect in the near future, and I look forward to that day.

My good friend, thank you for choosing me to help you with this task. Please excuse me for taking a bit of extra time to complete it but some questions I wanted to think deeply before answering them. I also felt a warm and kind connection with you and Bill. I admire couples that have endured time and life challenges and you can still see crystal clear how they love each other, like you two. An inspiring couple for me. I'm also sure we will meet again, don´t know where, but we will. Until then, we will keep in touch thanks to the tools that technology has given to us. Take care of yourself!  A big hug for both of you, José

Travel lies at the heart of our connection in Indonesia. What role has travel played throughout your life? 

JRG: To travel it has been a new discovery. I have traveled a bit in my life but always were “easy trips”, like going to Disney or close to Chile. It was just in 2020 when I went to an unusual destination such as San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua, and immediately I felt that something changed or woke up in me. In this part of my life, travel has helped me to trust in myself, to broaden my perspective and because of this, to value even more the differences between people. Curiously, and that's another reason for me to believe that I'm at the right place, the Indonesian motto is “Bhinneka Tunggal Ika” which can be translated to “unity in diversity”.

Just a few weeks ago you celebrated your one year anniversary with Xanadu. Congratulations! I would’ve guessed you’d been there much longer. You seem as if you’re one with the property. Can you tell the story about how you came to Xanadu and eventually ended up starting your life and career over in Lombok?

JRG: I think we all are quite connected with the vision. Probably Xanadu is a common dream of everyone who works here. I just happen to be a more visible face for the guests. But I'm just another piece in a network of a hard-working committed team. 

After 10 years of working in politics and teaching at my law school I decided to do a long solo trip. Wanted to know historical places and to learn how to surf properly. So I went to Europe for three months and then I came to Indonesia for three months, mainly in Uluwatu by then. But I'd heard about this magical island where the surf is great. So I was a guest at Xanadu Village in August 2022. I could see that the weekly package was well organized and structured, made for improving your surfing. I got to know Ola, one of the owners, because we have a friend in common. And I could recognize an admirable strong woman with the will to build an honest business, with purpose and a compass. Out of a joke we started thinking on the idea of me being the host, since she wanted to have someone thinking about the guests, whilst the surf and staff areas were covered by two great persons: Kayan and Ton. 

Do you ever miss that other life? The suits? The formality? Any of it? How were you able to let go of that life, what you knew, to provide space and fearlessness to start a new life?

JRG: I´ll always miss serving my country and working with people committed to build a better, free and fair society. Politics were invented to improve people's lives. Here at Xanadu my role, in a whole different scale, kind of looks like that. My goal here is to improve our guests' experience and I'm surrounded by people who honestly care about giving good service. To build the conditions for people to rest their minds and bodies, and to enjoy something as wonderful as surfing and yoga, it's a beautiful purpose.  

Do you think of it as beginning again? Or as an extension of your past life?

JRG: It is a whole thing. I couldn´t be doing what I'm doing without that experience. Aren't we all our history as well? We are in the present who we were in our past. And it's up to us how we want to be in the future. 

In the US it’s normalized to think a career choice and job defines us. Is that the same way in Chile’? Europe? Asia? Do you see yourself defined by your job? Or is it different for you? What’s your relationship with a career or job?

JRG: There is dignity in working, aiming for excellence. You can see people's ethics in their performance at their jobs. I don´t think your career defines you as I don't believe society tells you what to do or not. It is us, and our thoughts that shape us. We are free as we are responsibles. 

You have an ease about you, a light. Everyone staying at Xanadu during the workshop was drawn to you. You always had a smile on your face. Have you been like that your whole life? Or is that something that’s grown out of living your best life?

JRG: Riley, you are too kind with me haha, thanks for these thoughts. Though I have to say that thankfully we were in a very nice group, everyone was happy, bonding, learning. It's a conducive environment to be smiling. 

I celebrated my birthday during my stay at Xanadu. You guys surprised me with a cake and everyone sang Happy Birthday. I usually hate being the center of attention, but I must admit, it was pretty darn special to look over at you and all of my workshop buddies smiling and singing. I’m guessing you are a part of many special moments like that with guests. Are there any moments that stand out?

JRG: I think my favorite moments are during the video analysis that Kayan does every week. To see everyone looking carefully at their performance, huge smiles everywhere, cheering when someone was paddling hard and finally got the wave. To see a group of strangers enjoying a shared time is a beautiful thing to see. 

Your love for the ocean provides a special connection to your Mom. Could you talk more about that?

JRG: I´d like to say that the ocean is a huge connection for humanity. We all can connect through the sea. The fact that we surf the energy that was released thousands of kilometers away talks about connecting, right? And for me, family and friends are the most beautiful connections ever, made out of love. And the love from a mother is probably one of the most powerful energies ever. 

Can you imagine a life without surfing now that it’s become an integrated part of you? What does surfing give you every time you paddle out?

JRG: Not at all. Surfing has come to stay in my life, hopefully. I don't want to live anywhere if I cannot surf there. I would say it gives me fun through challenge. 

I remember Kayan showing me a photo of a drawing you did to teach yourself how to become a better surfer. It was so technical and unique, and I couldn’t stop looking at it. How exactly did you learn? What were the details of that drawing? I’m hoping we’ll have a copy of it to include in this piece. It was really phenomenal, and I loved hearing Kayan tell the story.

JRG: There are no secrets here. Just like everything you want to learn: studying, putting your heart on it and practicing. Discipline and time. And of course, a lot of luck on my end, since I ended up at a surf & yoga hotel, and getting to know an amazing and generous surfer as Kayan. 

The drawing is from one of my favorites surfers: Laure Mayer. She is just outstanding and so graceful all the time (not only when she´s surfing). So to understand what my body needs to do to do a drop knee, I took a screenshot, brightened up the screen, put a paper on top of it and drew it. 

You and I nerded out talking about Coleridge and Kubla Khan. It was wonderful (I don’t get to do that often!), and it was obvious you are passionate about literature, the arts, and philosophy. Who are your favorite writers? Favorite books? Any books you go back to often?

JRG: I'm not as educated as I would like to be but, in terms of poetry, my favorite is Mario Benedetti, from Uruguay (poems like Todavía, Te quiero and Soledades are just magnificent) and Gabriela Mistral from Chile (Nobel prize of literature in 1945). I also like Winston Churchill and his assertive sharp mind and his admirable vocabulary. A book . . . The first to come to my mind is “The Duelists” from Joseph Conrad. Elegant, fun. You can learn so much by reading it. 

Can you tell me about Pedro?

JRG: I can tell you he taught me how to be a better human being. His bright smart eyes I will miss and remember through the years until I’ll go to him so we can play together again. 

Jose’s beloved dog Pedro

When people ask about my trip to Indonesia, I always talk about the people. Everyone in Lombok and Bali welcomed me and made me feel right at home. They were all lovely and generous. When I saw monkeys in the wild for the first time, I was mesmerized. We were driving back from the beach, and the driver couldn’t believe I’d never seen them. He waved the other Xanadu truck behind us to go around so that he could position our SUV in a spot where I could watch and photograph the monkeys on the road and in the trees. It was a moment I’ll never forget, the monkeys and such thoughtfulness. I was so blown away by the moment, I forgot everything else, including the driver’s name. What stands out for you about Indonesia, and more specifically Lombok? Has it changed, and if so in what way, since your first visit? 

JRG: His name is Rindan. And he, as people are here in Lombok, is such a kind person. That is one of the things that I like the most about Lombok, the kindness that people usually show you. A genuine friendliness in your day to day life. 

Do you feel like you’ve found your wildness in Indonesia or in surfing and being in the water? What does Wild mean to you? 
JRG: I like the thought of connection with nature. More than with Indonesia, even though Lombok is an amazing paradise, my connection with nature comes since I was a child and the house where I grew up in was full of different trees, a grapevine, really pretty. And then, when surf appeared, well, then I got to enjoy nature again as if I was a kid. 

Do you have any advice you’d share with someone who’s thinking of changing their life, doing something completely different, whether it’s a relationship or a career, or trying something new? 

JRG: I wouldn't dare to advise anyone. I just can say that it's been something positive in my life to chase what makes me happy. 

What’s a day in the life for you?

JRG: It really depends on the day, but the common aspects of my week are checking on the guests to know how they are living their experience here with us at Xanadu. Therefore I try to be around, answer questions (from where can I go to a special dinner with my partner to how early should I arrive at the airport?). 

I try to surf as much as I can, with the proper balance to have enough time to rest sometimes, and to do other things that I care about, like studying something or helping a friend with a wild journal :) 

Jose’, What are two or three things you know for sure?

JRG: That life is beautiful and it will end. That it can change drastically any day without warning. That we are all going to die and so, in between, I want to aim for love in my living. Loving myself, my family and friends, my surfing and my job. 

Water Is Our Blood

Figuring out a place in the line up helped three New York City surfers discover their place in the world.

This film is the story of a special sisterhood built on a love of water and waves. Three young surfers living in Rockaway Beach, New York City take a closer look at women building up and supporting other women while creating a community that shuts out all the noise and encourages a flow of freedom and positivity. These are the interviews we did before shooting anything. When we put them all together and read them as one, we knew at once we had something special.

How long have you been friends? Where and how did you all meet?

Farmy: I’ve been friends with Cyn for about 4 years and Autumn for about a year. I can't really remember the first time I met Cyn. I just remember her being at the beach with us all the time when Laru Beya first started and there was only a small crew of us. She was pushing us into waves, surfing with us, and also teaching us how to swim. Fun fact: when I first started surfing, I didn't really know how to swim. I could float and understood that my board was always there with me if anything happened. Cyn was the first person to really teach me how to move in the water. I remember going to the YMCA with her and 2 of the other mentees and she literally worked us to death between the workout and swim practice haha. 

I met autumn randomly one day at the beach with Laru Beya in 2021. She came with Kwame and we never really spoke too much, just exchanged hellos. But in June, out of nowhere, we all randomly planned a last minute trip to Cali. Cyn, Autumn, our friend Elisabeth, and I all went and spent the weekend surfing as many places as we could, meeting up with friends, and just having a bunch of fun. After that trip we were stuck to each other's hips and got so much closer.

How does surfing play a role in your lives and in your friendship?

Cyn: Surfing was absolutely the glue that bonded us together. We met through Laru Beya, teaching the love of the water and surf to the youth beginning their own personal love for both. To be honest when we initially met we primarily worked together and rarely hung out outside of being on the beach. We had rough times just getting acclimated with the surf culture in Rockaway due to us being persons of color and then on top of that women. We definitely found solace in the fact that we could feel safer together out there in the water and just talk about it with each, not just because we were friends, but because we could each relate and be each other’s safe space to speak about it. We also used those same reasons to turn uncomfortable feelings to learning and teaching experiences as well as further motivation to not feel discouraged or stop what we knew belonged to us. Our love for the water, our love for the surf.

In what ways are the three of you alike?

Autumn: Our connection to surfing is something that really connects us all together. We all have a love for the ocean. We are all incredibly passionate about creating representation in the surf culture for the black community. Encouraging youth to get out in the water and making sure they know that they can participate in the sport of surf. Outside of water, I think we all love the idea of building community that is fun, vibrant and without bias.

In what ways are the three of you different?

We are incredibly different. I tend to be a bit more reserved compared to Cyn and Farmy. I love connecting one on one with people. Farmy is a great networker; she is so good at socializing and making friends. Cyn is so comfortable within herself and so outward in expression—it’s so beautiful. We all process and deal with things really differently. I’m always trying to process things in the moment and figure things out.

How does surfing play a role in your lives and in your friendship?

Everything good has stemmed from surfing. My life is centered around surfing, it is my life line. My life’s mirror. Surf is just like life. It can be hard, beautiful, and sad. Surfing is what brought us together. It’s what we do. It’s the heart.

As you look at your two friends, what would you say is their best quality?

Farmy: Cyn’s smile and her gap are her best features. To me it's my favorite, because it's what makes her so unique. Growing up i've met and seen so many people in my life feel insecure about their gaps or smiles. and the love Cyn has for hers shifted the way I think about my own personal beauty standards. Autumn’s best personality is her eyes. She can tell you thousands of stories without saying a single word. They're kinda like cats, I think, but always shining!! They say the eyes are the gates to the soul and if that's true hers is glowing bright :)

It’s really important to focus on the women in your lives, but it’s also important to acknowledge the men that support and mentor you. Who are some of these people and how do they support you and celebrate your wins?

Farmy: My parents have always inspired me. My father was a refugee who worked hard and moved our entire family over to the states. He's worked so many jobs, been an entrepreneur, and to this day is still working to build both the life that he wants and a legacy for our family. Aydon is another male in my life who has impacted me greatly. That’s probably why we call him surf dad. He’s guided me through my entire surf journey. Every step of the way, every new bridge I had to cross, every struggle I’ve endured in the water . . . Aydon was always there to support, to advise, to feed the girls and I, LMAO. I 100% wouldn’t be where I am today without him in my life. 

I think it’s common to be jealous of others, even when they’re our friends. How do you three handle jealousy?

Autumn: When it comes to being friends with young women, there is a sense of competition that people are dealing with, and I feel like it ruins a lot of friendships. But with this, there's no competition. It's really support. Like we all just support every single win. But there is jealousy for sure. You know, like if someone is doing something amazing, I think it's a natural feeling to feel jealous, right? But we, me and Farmy talk about it a bunch, it’s like jealousy doesn't have to be this horrible thing. Our feelings are indicators and jealousy is an indication that someone is doing something that you would also like to do. You're receiving more information about yourself and then you can be like, wait, I'm friends with someone who's doing the coolest thing ever. So it's I'm supporting you, and also I'm inspired by you. You're doing things that I aspire to do.

What is it like to live in Rockaway?

Cyn: Ten years? This is crazy. I'm in Rockaway for ten years. That's wild. But just coming from the Bronx to here it was such a culture shock, where I literally would be in my house, like having to look at my face in the mirror before I left. Like, all right, let me make sure that I have a good attitude because I would just walk through with my normal Bronx gameface on. People that didn't look like me, most of them, you know, not black and brown people, were asking me, “Are you okay? “ And I'm like, What do you mean by that? Mind you, you know, I interact at restaurants, you know, local places, and I would feel comfortable. I'm like, what's wrong? And they would say I just looked really angry. So I started adjusting like, this is a real community. You see the same exact faces every day. They're asking you about your family. Walking from corner to corner, you say hi to at least five people. I love that everyone's smiling, and that for me, before even in the surf, like just being able to go to the water, have fun with the people that literally live up and down the street. I don't have to worry about anything else. That was big for me. That was the best culture shock that I could say at this point that I ever had, that I needed because I was just so tough and hard. And it's like, Oh, everyone's still here. I know because the water is here. But now , you know, we have more than water.

What is it like to grow up in Rockaway?

Farmy: I’ve been in Rockaway for most of my life now. I hated it growing up, because I felt like there was never anything for me here. Once I started surfing, my own backyard became my playground and everything did a complete 180. 

Who are some of the people that support you and celebrate your wins?

Cyn: Personally, I would start with the person that helped give me life, my father. I also feel Aydon, who is the founder of the organization Laru Beya I work with, has been pivotal in my growth, as well as I call him my ‘surf dad’ since I’ve been living in Rockaway. I also have my peers that I have met through surfing and the community in Rockaway. My dad has always, since I can remember; done everything in his power to ensure that I had access. As a young woman of color, a black girl growing up, that support and motivation was immensely powerful for me. I don’t know where I would be without him. Aydon, from the time I met him through teaching his children at the YMCA and him seeing something in me and allowing me to join Laru Beya and helping me pursue passion and dreams. Lastly my peers that I met through surfing have also encouraged me, and we’ve built long friendships thus far.

What’s the most inspiring thing someone has either said to you or done for you?

Farmy: During the Laru Beya shoot with Teen Vogue, Aydon said something along the lines of, “This is your break. You have every right to be in this water as much as anyone else. So take all your waves, paddle out where you want, and take up all the space that is yours.” and that’s been my mindset since. 

What’s the best advice you’d give to other young females?

Autumn: Be exactly who you are in the moment. Celebrate who you are. Have goals. Work toward them. Build a community of women who support you in the life you want to live. But most importantly, be unapologetically you.

What’s the most valuable part of this sisterhood?

Cyn: We feel safe with each other. So when we go out into the water, even though there can be that, you know, attitude when people see these beautiful Afrocentric Black women pop out, we're not as afraid or feeling like we have to prove ourselves anymore. Having that trust, it definitely translates into the water. And having a safe space with each other. Also just relaxing on the beach, just being around each other. Honestly, sometimes we can hang out and not chat much, just in our own thoughts and check in like, Hey, you okay? Yeah. Yeah, I'm good. All right. The water is like, I don't know, our blood.  

Living the Life of Riley

People always ask me what Life of Riley means. Simply put: It’s a declaration of living your best life. The concept was based on a 1944 radio show and later became a hit 1950’s TV show, The Life of Riley. People started using it as a common saying, that person is really living the Life of Riley, aka the good life. I first used Life of Riley as an artist name when I created my award-winning column at my college newspaper. It’s weird to say, but I became an instant sort of low-key “celebrity” around campus. Students started calling me Life of Riley or Riley. I’d get shout outs from strangers telling my what they enjoyed about my column or what it meant to them. I’d left my sales & marketing career behind in order to follow my dream of becoming a published writer. The end goal was an eventual MFA, and I wanted to write a book. So I attended college for the first time (I was a high school dropout.) at the age of 36. It was a huge leap of faith. I was scared a lot of the time, but writing the Life of Riley pushed me to explore and grow as a person and a creative. Those Life of Riley shout outs motivated me, maybe in a way nothing else ever had, and I savored each one. It was a sign that I was right where I belonged. That was life changing.

While in school, I joined the board of directors of a nonprofit. This was right at the beginning of social media. The nonprofit needed a Twitter account. I was the creative. So I learned all I could about Twitter and not only built that account but built the account of other locations’ social media. I really fell in love with the spontaneity, creativity, and even the crazy challenging algorithms. As a writer and a marketer, it came naturally. Once the word got around that I knew social media, other brands asked to hire me. So I started my own side hustle, Life of Riley Communications, a social media consulting company. I ended up growing a six figure business and made that my full-time career for almost a decade.

Five years ago, this past September, everything in my life changed. I moved out of the city and made my home in Rockaway, craving more of an outdoors lifestyle and the sweet sound of crashing waves. An empty nester, burned out, and emotionally distraught, I’d lost my way. Although I continued with a few clients, my heart was no longer in my business. I’d also started a book, but I realized at a certain point that I had run out of words. I picked up my camera that I normally used to create content for clients and started taking photos when I’d walk on the beach. At first it was seashells, seagulls, boats, and all the interesting beach characters. One chilly fall day, much like the weather as I’m writing this, a lone surfer caught my eye. It was just the two of us out there: not another soul in sight. I couldn’t look away and continued shooting, mesmerized by his long, smooth glide on the board and the hustle and flow of the Atlantic ocean. The sky opened itself up to me in a way it never had before. Oh what light! That dancing light even on a misty grey day took my breath away. I was reminded of days on the water when I was a kid, and how my little brother and I never wanted to get out or leave. And that was that. At 50, I reinvented myself as a surf and water photographer. Life of Riley NYC was born.

So, yeah, The Life of Riley means living your best life. But what does that even mean or look like really? I don’t have it all figured out. Hope I never do, honestly. I do know what I’ve discovered up to this point with all my Life of Riley iterations. I believe it means practicing self love or at least self like as often as possible. Recognizing daily joys like a sunrise. Connecting with people who support you and inspire you and reciprocating. Taking chances. Being gentle with yourself. Trusting the ebb and flow of life. Exploring where the comfort zone dead ends and adventure begins. Here’s to living your Life of Riley!

Love Comes In Waves

When I first started noticing couples surfing together, I wanted to know more about how a relationship with the ocean enhances a romantic relationship? I met Mike and Akiyo a few years ago. I’d see them on the beach and surfing solo or with friends and then started spotting them going out together. I could tell immediately a beautiful friendship radiated at the core of their life together.

How long have you been together? How did you meet?

A: In 2014, we met at an art opening event at a friend’s shop, Nepenthes, in Midtown and became friends. We started dating at the end of 2017. 

M: Me and Akiyo were friends before we became a couple. We met in 2014 at a friend's event in midtown. She said she just moved to NYC and was looking for people to surf with, and we said we were going surfing the next day. She showed up, and that was the beginning of our surf journey, which eventually led to us coupling up at the end of 2017.

Do you live in Rockaway or travel from the city to surf here?

M: We live in Brooklyn but actually lived in Long Beach, NY for 3 years before that.

What does surfing add to your life?

A: Excitement, life lessons, passion, appreciation, feeling blessed, socializing.

Before I got into it, I’d heard often that surfing is a lifestyle, and I wasn’t quite sure what that meant. Now I understand. It is really part of my life, our lives. I’m a hair and makeup artist, and I love it. My job and surfing are the main streams of my life.

M: Surfing is a pretty personal endeavor for me but to share waves and watch Akiyo get waves is exciting. I'm glad to have a partner who I hope can understand me. I'm lucky that she understands the froth and madness that comes with being engaged to surfing.

What does it bring to your relationship?

A: More excitement. More passion. More appreciation. More feeling blessed. I’m so happy and blessed that I have a partner who can share this lifestyle, passion and excitement. Surfing itself is already fun but with him everything becomes more!

How often do you surf together?

A: When we lived in Long Beach, it was like 4-5 times a week. Now probably 2-3 times a week.

M: We surf together as often as we are able. She, before we were even a pair, was the one partner I had who I could reliably call to go surfing because of her freelancing schedule and was game, even in the dead of winter. We even did the trifecta one year . . .  that's surfing in the morning, snowboarding during the day, and skateboarding at night.

Did one of you introduce the other to surfing or did you both already know how to surf when you met?

A: I was a beginner when I met him. He already knew how to surf. He did introduce me to mid length/longboarding two to three years ago though. When we first met we only surfed short boards. Now we ride everything, depending on conditions.

M: When we first met, she was into surfing but kind of a beginner. I was surfing for a bunch of years but really not that good either.

What other activities do you enjoy doing together?

A: Snowboarding, skateboarding, going to events, and chilling at home.

M: We enjoy snowboarding together. We also love chilling at home, unwinding. We are pretty much home bodies and an occasional events couple.

During the pandemic how has life been different for you? Has it changed your relationship with surfing?

A: Less work, more surf. Less other activities, more surf. Less going out to the city, more surf. My work was slow or none at one point in 2020. So I had more time for surfing. I used to go to the climbing gym, but I stopped because of the Pandemic. Instead I surfed more!

I keep in touch with friends in Japan where I’m from, but it was only by SMS or when I traveled back to Japan before the Pandemic. During the pandemic I chatted more with them in Japan. That was a kind of nice thing that happened because of the pandemic. I was so grateful that I lived by the beach and could surf and socialize with other surfers when people really couldn’t socialize in person other than with house members.

M: During the pandemic, because we lived a couple blocks from the beach, we just surfed our brains out. I think for me personally, it's translated into my personal interest in surf craft and riding different boards more. Also, it's kept me pretty happy just staying local and trying to find something to ride, even when forecasts look bad. Just happy to be in the water, feel more connected to chaos, with a healthy dose of respect and wonder.