Water Is Our Blood

Figuring out a place in the line up helped three New York City surfers discover their place in the world.

This film is the story of a special sisterhood built on a love of water and waves. Three young surfers living in Rockaway Beach, New York City take a closer look at women building up and supporting other women while creating a community that shuts out all the noise and encourages a flow of freedom and positivity. These are the interviews we did before shooting anything. When we put them all together and read them as one, we knew at once we had something special.

How long have you been friends? Where and how did you all meet?

Farmy: I’ve been friends with Cyn for about 4 years and Autumn for about a year. I can't really remember the first time I met Cyn. I just remember her being at the beach with us all the time when Laru Beya first started and there was only a small crew of us. She was pushing us into waves, surfing with us, and also teaching us how to swim. Fun fact: when I first started surfing, I didn't really know how to swim. I could float and understood that my board was always there with me if anything happened. Cyn was the first person to really teach me how to move in the water. I remember going to the YMCA with her and 2 of the other mentees and she literally worked us to death between the workout and swim practice haha. 

I met autumn randomly one day at the beach with Laru Beya in 2021. She came with Kwame and we never really spoke too much, just exchanged hellos. But in June, out of nowhere, we all randomly planned a last minute trip to Cali. Cyn, Autumn, our friend Elisabeth, and I all went and spent the weekend surfing as many places as we could, meeting up with friends, and just having a bunch of fun. After that trip we were stuck to each other's hips and got so much closer.

How does surfing play a role in your lives and in your friendship?

Cyn: Surfing was absolutely the glue that bonded us together. We met through Laru Beya, teaching the love of the water and surf to the youth beginning their own personal love for both. To be honest when we initially met we primarily worked together and rarely hung out outside of being on the beach. We had rough times just getting acclimated with the surf culture in Rockaway due to us being persons of color and then on top of that women. We definitely found solace in the fact that we could feel safer together out there in the water and just talk about it with each, not just because we were friends, but because we could each relate and be each other’s safe space to speak about it. We also used those same reasons to turn uncomfortable feelings to learning and teaching experiences as well as further motivation to not feel discouraged or stop what we knew belonged to us. Our love for the water, our love for the surf.

In what ways are the three of you alike?

Autumn: Our connection to surfing is something that really connects us all together. We all have a love for the ocean. We are all incredibly passionate about creating representation in the surf culture for the black community. Encouraging youth to get out in the water and making sure they know that they can participate in the sport of surf. Outside of water, I think we all love the idea of building community that is fun, vibrant and without bias.

In what ways are the three of you different?

We are incredibly different. I tend to be a bit more reserved compared to Cyn and Farmy. I love connecting one on one with people. Farmy is a great networker; she is so good at socializing and making friends. Cyn is so comfortable within herself and so outward in expression—it’s so beautiful. We all process and deal with things really differently. I’m always trying to process things in the moment and figure things out.

How does surfing play a role in your lives and in your friendship?

Everything good has stemmed from surfing. My life is centered around surfing, it is my life line. My life’s mirror. Surf is just like life. It can be hard, beautiful, and sad. Surfing is what brought us together. It’s what we do. It’s the heart.

As you look at your two friends, what would you say is their best quality?

Farmy: Cyn’s smile and her gap are her best features. To me it's my favorite, because it's what makes her so unique. Growing up i've met and seen so many people in my life feel insecure about their gaps or smiles. and the love Cyn has for hers shifted the way I think about my own personal beauty standards. Autumn’s best personality is her eyes. She can tell you thousands of stories without saying a single word. They're kinda like cats, I think, but always shining!! They say the eyes are the gates to the soul and if that's true hers is glowing bright :)

It’s really important to focus on the women in your lives, but it’s also important to acknowledge the men that support and mentor you. Who are some of these people and how do they support you and celebrate your wins?

Farmy: My parents have always inspired me. My father was a refugee who worked hard and moved our entire family over to the states. He's worked so many jobs, been an entrepreneur, and to this day is still working to build both the life that he wants and a legacy for our family. Aydon is another male in my life who has impacted me greatly. That’s probably why we call him surf dad. He’s guided me through my entire surf journey. Every step of the way, every new bridge I had to cross, every struggle I’ve endured in the water . . . Aydon was always there to support, to advise, to feed the girls and I, LMAO. I 100% wouldn’t be where I am today without him in my life. 

I think it’s common to be jealous of others, even when they’re our friends. How do you three handle jealousy?

Autumn: When it comes to being friends with young women, there is a sense of competition that people are dealing with, and I feel like it ruins a lot of friendships. But with this, there's no competition. It's really support. Like we all just support every single win. But there is jealousy for sure. You know, like if someone is doing something amazing, I think it's a natural feeling to feel jealous, right? But we, me and Farmy talk about it a bunch, it’s like jealousy doesn't have to be this horrible thing. Our feelings are indicators and jealousy is an indication that someone is doing something that you would also like to do. You're receiving more information about yourself and then you can be like, wait, I'm friends with someone who's doing the coolest thing ever. So it's I'm supporting you, and also I'm inspired by you. You're doing things that I aspire to do.

What is it like to live in Rockaway?

Cyn: Ten years? This is crazy. I'm in Rockaway for ten years. That's wild. But just coming from the Bronx to here it was such a culture shock, where I literally would be in my house, like having to look at my face in the mirror before I left. Like, all right, let me make sure that I have a good attitude because I would just walk through with my normal Bronx gameface on. People that didn't look like me, most of them, you know, not black and brown people, were asking me, “Are you okay? “ And I'm like, What do you mean by that? Mind you, you know, I interact at restaurants, you know, local places, and I would feel comfortable. I'm like, what's wrong? And they would say I just looked really angry. So I started adjusting like, this is a real community. You see the same exact faces every day. They're asking you about your family. Walking from corner to corner, you say hi to at least five people. I love that everyone's smiling, and that for me, before even in the surf, like just being able to go to the water, have fun with the people that literally live up and down the street. I don't have to worry about anything else. That was big for me. That was the best culture shock that I could say at this point that I ever had, that I needed because I was just so tough and hard. And it's like, Oh, everyone's still here. I know because the water is here. But now , you know, we have more than water.

What is it like to grow up in Rockaway?

Farmy: I’ve been in Rockaway for most of my life now. I hated it growing up, because I felt like there was never anything for me here. Once I started surfing, my own backyard became my playground and everything did a complete 180. 

Who are some of the people that support you and celebrate your wins?

Cyn: Personally, I would start with the person that helped give me life, my father. I also feel Aydon, who is the founder of the organization Laru Beya I work with, has been pivotal in my growth, as well as I call him my ‘surf dad’ since I’ve been living in Rockaway. I also have my peers that I have met through surfing and the community in Rockaway. My dad has always, since I can remember; done everything in his power to ensure that I had access. As a young woman of color, a black girl growing up, that support and motivation was immensely powerful for me. I don’t know where I would be without him. Aydon, from the time I met him through teaching his children at the YMCA and him seeing something in me and allowing me to join Laru Beya and helping me pursue passion and dreams. Lastly my peers that I met through surfing have also encouraged me, and we’ve built long friendships thus far.

What’s the most inspiring thing someone has either said to you or done for you?

Farmy: During the Laru Beya shoot with Teen Vogue, Aydon said something along the lines of, “This is your break. You have every right to be in this water as much as anyone else. So take all your waves, paddle out where you want, and take up all the space that is yours.” and that’s been my mindset since. 

What’s the best advice you’d give to other young females?

Autumn: Be exactly who you are in the moment. Celebrate who you are. Have goals. Work toward them. Build a community of women who support you in the life you want to live. But most importantly, be unapologetically you.

What’s the most valuable part of this sisterhood?

Cyn: We feel safe with each other. So when we go out into the water, even though there can be that, you know, attitude when people see these beautiful Afrocentric Black women pop out, we're not as afraid or feeling like we have to prove ourselves anymore. Having that trust, it definitely translates into the water. And having a safe space with each other. Also just relaxing on the beach, just being around each other. Honestly, sometimes we can hang out and not chat much, just in our own thoughts and check in like, Hey, you okay? Yeah. Yeah, I'm good. All right. The water is like, I don't know, our blood.  

Love Comes In Waves

When I first started noticing couples surfing together, I wanted to know more about how a relationship with the ocean enhances a romantic relationship? I met Mike and Akiyo a few years ago. I’d see them on the beach and surfing solo or with friends and then started spotting them going out together. I could tell immediately a beautiful friendship radiated at the core of their life together.

How long have you been together? How did you meet?

A: In 2014, we met at an art opening event at a friend’s shop, Nepenthes, in Midtown and became friends. We started dating at the end of 2017. 

M: Me and Akiyo were friends before we became a couple. We met in 2014 at a friend's event in midtown. She said she just moved to NYC and was looking for people to surf with, and we said we were going surfing the next day. She showed up, and that was the beginning of our surf journey, which eventually led to us coupling up at the end of 2017.

Do you live in Rockaway or travel from the city to surf here?

M: We live in Brooklyn but actually lived in Long Beach, NY for 3 years before that.

What does surfing add to your life?

A: Excitement, life lessons, passion, appreciation, feeling blessed, socializing.

Before I got into it, I’d heard often that surfing is a lifestyle, and I wasn’t quite sure what that meant. Now I understand. It is really part of my life, our lives. I’m a hair and makeup artist, and I love it. My job and surfing are the main streams of my life.

M: Surfing is a pretty personal endeavor for me but to share waves and watch Akiyo get waves is exciting. I'm glad to have a partner who I hope can understand me. I'm lucky that she understands the froth and madness that comes with being engaged to surfing.

What does it bring to your relationship?

A: More excitement. More passion. More appreciation. More feeling blessed. I’m so happy and blessed that I have a partner who can share this lifestyle, passion and excitement. Surfing itself is already fun but with him everything becomes more!

How often do you surf together?

A: When we lived in Long Beach, it was like 4-5 times a week. Now probably 2-3 times a week.

M: We surf together as often as we are able. She, before we were even a pair, was the one partner I had who I could reliably call to go surfing because of her freelancing schedule and was game, even in the dead of winter. We even did the trifecta one year . . .  that's surfing in the morning, snowboarding during the day, and skateboarding at night.

Did one of you introduce the other to surfing or did you both already know how to surf when you met?

A: I was a beginner when I met him. He already knew how to surf. He did introduce me to mid length/longboarding two to three years ago though. When we first met we only surfed short boards. Now we ride everything, depending on conditions.

M: When we first met, she was into surfing but kind of a beginner. I was surfing for a bunch of years but really not that good either.

What other activities do you enjoy doing together?

A: Snowboarding, skateboarding, going to events, and chilling at home.

M: We enjoy snowboarding together. We also love chilling at home, unwinding. We are pretty much home bodies and an occasional events couple.

During the pandemic how has life been different for you? Has it changed your relationship with surfing?

A: Less work, more surf. Less other activities, more surf. Less going out to the city, more surf. My work was slow or none at one point in 2020. So I had more time for surfing. I used to go to the climbing gym, but I stopped because of the Pandemic. Instead I surfed more!

I keep in touch with friends in Japan where I’m from, but it was only by SMS or when I traveled back to Japan before the Pandemic. During the pandemic I chatted more with them in Japan. That was a kind of nice thing that happened because of the pandemic. I was so grateful that I lived by the beach and could surf and socialize with other surfers when people really couldn’t socialize in person other than with house members.

M: During the pandemic, because we lived a couple blocks from the beach, we just surfed our brains out. I think for me personally, it's translated into my personal interest in surf craft and riding different boards more. Also, it's kept me pretty happy just staying local and trying to find something to ride, even when forecasts look bad. Just happy to be in the water, feel more connected to chaos, with a healthy dose of respect and wonder.

Life Is Good

Jamie Song

Age 33

Fitness Trainer, Surfer

New York

If I remember right, you’ve talked about starting to surf, leaving it, and then starting again years later. Can you give some details on that?

In 2017 I took a few lessons in Rockaway. Had a lot of fun but back then I was working anywhere from 50-90hrs a week as a tax accountant and didn’t have time or mental capacity to commit to surfing. In 2018 I took a 4-weeks vacation in Hawaii, where living felt so good. I was so taken by surfing and hiking and just being surrounded by loving nature, I decided to quit my job, ha! Fast forward to 2021, with a lot more time and flexibility on my hand as a personal trainer, I picked up surfing again in Rockaway. After a few lessons with Chris (@surfwithchris), I was hooked this time, thoroughly.  

Surfing is not easy. It’s intimidating for a lot of people. You share inspiration and photos/videos via Instagram often where you talk about not having the perfect surf day. Yet every surf post is so positive: “One surf session stronger!” What encourages you to keep going as you’re learning?

It really is so hard!! isn’t it? Haha. My experienced surfer friends tell me that surfing becomes more and more fun, the better you get. So… if I’m already having this much fun, how exciting is it that it’s only going to get better? That’s what makes me go surfing whether it’s a scary big waves day or a flat day that doesn’t seem worth the trip. The more I wipe out, fight relentless currents, paddle hard only to miss waves after waves, tumble under the water for what feels like 15 seconds when it was probably like 3 seconds, the better surfer I become. And the better surfer I become, the more fun I’ll have :) 

Jamie riding the waves in Rockaway Beach, New York

What advice would you give to someone considering surf lessons?

Do it already! If you’re on the fence, sign up with your friends, so even if you end up hating surfing (which I doubt), you’ll have made it a fun beach day :)  I enjoyed taking my first few lessons with the same teacher @surfwithchris and then surfing as often as possible with my friend Offer so they could see my progress, explain to me how each session’s going to feel different depending on the surf condition of that day, and they’d know how much to push me out of my comfort zone as I progress. Also take at least 3-4 lessons before you decide whether surfing is for you or not! Surf conditions change so dramatically each day (and sometimes within hours), so your first lesson could be ‘meh’ but the next lesson could be amazing!

How has surfing changed you? What does surfing add to your life? Can you put into words the feeling you have out in the water, riding a wave?

It sounds funny/cheesy, but I adore the person I become when I’m surfing. Giddy the night before surfing. Giving big hugs and smiles to everyone I remotely know at the beach. Cracking up at everything and nothing. Amused by the ever-changing shapes of clouds, the cutest Piping Plover chicks running down the beach, the sands under my nails. It’s like regaining the long-lost curiosity/sensitivity of a happy child. My life seems ever so full and new and colorful since I started surfing. When I’m having a bad day I go surf. When I’m having a great day I go surf. The ocean never fails to remind me everything is temporary, bad or good. It puts me back into the current moment, to just be, and be okay. Riding a wave, still to me as a beginner, feels like “Is this really happening??” haha. It’s magical. 

As a fitness trainer, you know the importance of being physically and mentally fit. How does that figure into your workout routine and daily lifestyle?

Honestly it hasn’t been easy, introducing surfing into my routine. Surfing 1-3x/week, lifting 2-3x/week, and training clients all over lower Manhattan, it’s definitely physically taxing to my body. But I wouldn’t want it any other way. Surfing is a great cardio and upper body training, lifting is the best physical activity you can do for your overall health, and training clients is a rewarding job I’m lucky to have. All three nourish me physically and mentally.

What board are you riding? 

I just bought a 7’8” Torq board. I’ve moved from a 9’ foamie to an 8’4” NSP hardtop to a 7’6” board I got off Craigslist, which I realized was too difficult for me. I wasn’t catching as many waves on that board.  So I got a 7’8” Torq with a ton more volume. I’m having a lot of fun on this one.  

What’s an interesting fact about you that would surprise most people?

I had scoliosis surgery when I was 13 and my spine is fused with 14 long surgical pins and rods. I can’t curl or twist my spine. Who knew I’d become a personal trainer in my 30s with this robot back! Oh and I can lift 415lbs with my butt! 

Jamie, what are 2 or 3 things you know for sure?

One thing I’ve learned at this point in my life is to be at ease with the turbulence and uncertainties that either I’m going through or are imminent. When I was younger, I let myself get anxious, worry, and suffer from the “what ifs”, but now I’ve learned to be okay in the middle of turbulence. Kind of like on my surfboard on a choppy but still beautiful day out in the water. 

Everything is temporary - what seems grand and what seems awful, the aching wants and pressing needs. Things that used to matter a lot to my younger-self don’t carry much weight anymore. And then there are things that bring immeasurable happiness to me now that I never knew was possible. Being as fully present as possible, experiencing and riding it out until it lasts, and then being at ease with the next changes is what I’m trying to practice. 

Life is so good! Surfing makes it even better! I love it so much!

Love Will Prevail

Leandro Artigala

50, Artist, Architect, Surfer

Brooklyn, New York

Riley: When did you first start surfing?

Leandro: I started surfing when I was 15, thirty five years ago. Lucas, a good friend of mine, got me into surfing. At that time my friend was traveling every year, and for many years, together with his family to spend their summers in Brazil. A country where surfing was already very popular, particularly in comparison with Buenos Aires where the gap was pretty big for several reasons. First, Buenos Aires doesn’t have an ocean, just a huge river “Río de la Plata”, as a matter of fact the widest world wide. So in order for locals based in BA to get into the ocean they have to drive an average of 4 hours South, to the city of Mar del Plata, a beautiful place along the Atlantic. For this main reason, for many BA locals this was their summer destination city in the region. A city where surfing was already happening, not at the same pace as Brazil, but still. Basically Mar del Plata was the place where I did start and learn how to surf. The second important reason, and not the least, at that time (late 80’s) acquiring surfboards was very challenging and expensive. So Lucas not only gave me that first push literally, but let me use his wetsuits and boards, most of them traditional thrusters. Due to his Brazilian summer adventures, he was the guy with the largest quiver in town.

Riley: What places have you surfed? What makes Rockaway Beach stand out? Why does it hold a special place in your heart? 

Leandro: I’ve surfed in Chile, Peru, Brazil, California, and Southern California. Unfortunately I didn't get the chance, nor had the money or the time to travel and explore more points and surfing locations. Anyway those particular destinations that I did get the chance to visit, marked an important time and memory in my life. Rockaway, same as Long Beach, are my favorite places in the world, not only for its surfing, but its formidable people.

Riley: How many boards do you have? Do you have a favorite?

Leandro: At the moment (together with my 16 year old son) we have a total of 6 boards (two longboards, a mid length, and three thrusters). My favorite, the Jose Barahona light blue mid length board, I got for my 50th birthday. I do love all of them.

Riley: Summer surf? Or winter surf? And why?

Leandro: Summer and winter, Surf all year around. Because I love it, surfing is one of my passions. And it truly helps me exponentially with my mental, physical and spiritual health.

Leandro and friend Takashi Yamada at the Community Paddle Out for Asian Solidarity in Rockaway Beach, New York.

Riley: You recently were diagnosed with cancer. You and I have had many conversations about it. I’ve treasured your openness. What did your world look like before the diagnosis? How has life changed since?

Leandro: I’ve already forgotten how my world looked (seven months ago) and how it was to feel well before my diagnosis. I feel like my life was put on hold, that someone took it away. Together with surfing, that’s what I really miss the most.

Riley: The surf community is like no other. I know I’m biased, but the Rockaway surf community is extra special. How has the community and your surf friends supported you during this time? 

Leandro: There is a before and after Rockaway in my life. Same as there is a before and after my cancer. I can’t even imagine how it would be to transition into this new life, if I didn’t have Rockaway, if I didn’t have its community, if I didn’t have the friends and wonderful people that I was able to meet along these years through Rockaway.

Leandro’s son Lautaro out with his dad surfing Rockaway waves.

Riley: We met about 3 years ago. The first thing that stood out to me was watching you surf with your son, Lautaro. Why was that important to you? To share your love of surfing with your son. And what did you hope he would gain from your time together in the water?

Leandro: Surfing with my son is and means everything. Although it is quite hard to describe, put it into words and sum it up with one sentence. I’ve never pushed him or imposed it. At one point luckily enough Surfing for him was something quite natural, almost like walking. Without either of us noticing, all of a sudden we both ended up sitting on our boards at the lineup. I hope and believe he’ll get a lot out of the ocean, out of nature, out of surfing; his mind is already, and will literally blow up in such a good and amazing way. Nurturing him with life enriching, unforgettable and memorable experiences. Already touching our hearts and souls; our time in the water will live forever with us.

Riley: Leandro, two or three things you know for sure? 

Leandro: Rather three words: “Love Will Prevail”

Leandro recently set up a GoFund Me page to help with all of the unexpected expenses since his cancer diagnosis. Please check it out and help if you can. Thank you.